Mallorca - Cala St. Vincenc
Cala St. Vincenc seen from the Grupotel Molins, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Circular Polarizing Filter, Kodak Ektar 100
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It didn’t seem right to travel to Mallorca without staying at a beachside resort of some kind, so we decided to take advantage of shoulder-season rates and stay at the Grupotel Molins, located along one of the crystal blue bays of the resort town of Cala St. Vincenc. Despite the sunny photos you see here, April is still a bit early to enjoy the beach, or at least it was on this trip, with relatively cool weather, chilly waters and even a bit of rain during our stay. Oh well, we tried anyway and it was still a beautiful spot to spend some time relaxing and exploring.
Grupotel Molins, Cala St. Vincenc, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The Hotel and Surrounds
Originally built in the 1950’s and renovated most recently in 2020, the Molins exudes Mid-Century Modern charm with an absolutely stunning location. Our room had a terrific view of the azure waters of the bay and beautiful mountains beyond. Featuring indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, several terraces for lounging and of course quick access to the beach, this is a tough spot to beat on this corner of the island. Our room was spartan but clean and spacious, and frankly you’re not likely to spend too much time in it other than sleeping. There’s also a rather funky bar on the ground floor, which we sadly passed on due to our little travel partner’s early bed-time.
There are a number of hikes in the area, following the jagged ridges of the mountains and no-doubt offering amazing views. Our stroller wasn’t going to cut it for these, so we opted to relax by the beach instead, even if the water was a bit cool by typical sunny vacation standards. The breakfast buffet at the Molins was our starting point each morning. It was well stocked with plenty of variety, from local fare to your more typical staples of omelette stations and the like. It somehow managed to avoid feeling chaotic as such setups often do, and it was easy enough to find something to satiate a picky near-toddler and his parents.
Grupotel Molins on the right, Cala St. Vincenc, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Grupotel Molins, Cala St. Vincenc, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Circular Polarizing Filter, Kodak Portra 400
Cala Molins, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Exploring the Area
On a couple of the cloudier days of our stay we decided to drive around and explore. Nearby Cabo Formentor is a frequently photographed rocky outcrop complete with lighthouse that seemed a relatively easy morning excursion. Seemed being the operative word. As alluded to in a few other posts, some of the roads here are quite old and thus fairly narrow. So, when you put a bunch of road cyclists, tour busses and cars on the same stretch, climbing a 15% grade full of blind corners for example, progress is slow. I’m sure we could have timed that drive better, but regardless it afforded plenty of opportunity to soak in the scenery and an early car-seat nap for the little one.
Unfortunately for us, the road to the lighthouse viewpoint was closed several kilometers short of the destination with no indication of this in advance. The mix of cars attempting to park on the non-existent shoulder, execute U-turns, or otherwise sit in confusion, meant it took nearly 30min to turn around once we realized we could go no further. Oh well, we stopped for a few snaps along the return journey and headed for Port de Pollenca for a walk by the marina.
Near Cabo Formentor, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Port de Pollenca is essentially what you see in your mind when you read “Tourist Town”. Every block seems to have a different ‘Irish’ pub, bar, tour company and tourist trinket shop. Not quite what we were looking for, but an enjoyable walk regardless along the beachside road and past the marina to pass the time. We did find a great farm-to-table restaurant for dinner called Zarzales which served a variety of Mallorcan dishes in a quaint and relaxed setting. The paella and lamb were particularly tasty.
Port de Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Our radius of travel from the hotel was relatively small, but we still found plenty to enjoy. The town of Pollenca (not to be confused with Port de Pollenca) was a short distance away and a lovely place to wander. With the requisite restaurants and cafes and their vibrant patios spilling out onto the street, large churches with bells ringing out and shops of all sorts squeezed into tiny spaces, it just felt more “real” than the port, which I’m sure sounds funny coming from a tourist.
Bicycle in Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
On the outskirts of Pollenca we stumbled upon Son Brull Hotel & Spa, a captivating blend of ancient and mid-century modern design. The hotel's exterior, marked by slab sides and towering solid wood doors, hints at the luxury within. During our visit, we were drawn in for a cocktail and ended up staying for a delightful late lunch on one of it’s patios. Son Brull appeared the perfect retreat for those who appreciate pampering, local cycling routes (favored by pro riders for training), and an exquisite ambience. It's a must-consider for any return trip.
Son Brull Sanctuary Hotel & Spa, Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Speaking of return trips, our ensuing journey back to Palma for a couple of nights of Mallorcan big-city living took a scenic detour along some B-roads through the countryside. The decision proved worthwhile, offering serene views that made the drive a memorable and relaxing shift into the final phase of our trip. During my initial research on Mallorcan accommodations, I discovered numerous reasonably priced villa stays in the inland areas and foothills of the mountains. While we did stay at one near the coast on the outskirts of Soller, the drive revealed a plethora of additional options scattered across the island – from grandiose to simple and quaint. I would absolutely select one of these for a future stay, particularly if I wanted to join the cycling crowd with some likeminded friends and pound out some miles on the pavement in our own peloton before returning to mix cocktails and relax by a pool. As we navigated the empty winding roads, the romantic allure of Mallorca's interior unfolded with tree-lined paths and charming stone walls. A delightful reconnaissance for potential future stays.
One of many villas along our winding road in Mallorca. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The countryside behind us, we finally arrive in Palma. Google map’s directions seemed determined to shave the mirrors off my car (again) so after looping the neighbourhood several times we parked up on a sidewalk and walked our bags over to our accommodation a couple of blocks away. The friendly concierge at the Palma Suites Apartment Hotel helps me get my bearings so I can find an official parking zone while my wife and kiddo prepare to wander out and find dinner. Just a few days left to enjoy our trip, how will Palma pan out?
Rooftops of Palma Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400