Mallorca - Palma
Looking across the lagoon to the marina, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Read Part IV: Mallorca - Cala St. Vincenc →
The sun came out for us in Palma and we got a taste of the heat that makes Mallorca such a popular destination for travellers. It’s here we’d get a bit of real beach-time, plenty of walking, cold drinks and al fresco dining. Our accommodation, the Palma Suites Apartment Hotel is ideally situated in the historic city Center with easy walking to the marina, restaurants, shopping areas, etc. The rooftop lounging area, complete with a small pool, affords stunning views across the rooftops of this ancient city. Our room was a loft apartment with modern décor and plenty of accoutrement and appliances to support a comfortable long stay. Bonus points for feeling more like an apartment than a hotel room and for having quick modern elevators in a building that is no doubt quite old, an asset for anyone travelling with a kid and all the extra gear that entails. There aren’t a ton of facilities at the hotel but I will note the lobby bar looked like a fun place to start an evening with a funky vibe and layout maximizing it’s tiny footprint.
Part of the panoramic view from the rooftop lounge, Palma Suites, Palma Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Part of the panoramic view from the rooftop lounge, Palma Suites, Palma Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Beaches
There are a lot of options for beaches around Palma, though most require a car, bike or cab ride to get to from the city center. We chose the long strip of beach areas to the South-East beyond the airport as it seemed most likely to get the best sun throughout the day. As with most southern European beaches, the sand is free but the sunbeds take a fee, which was nothing exorbitant and well worth it for the bit of shade when you (or the kiddo) need it. There are kiosks and restaurants selling drinks and food all along the paved beach path which stretches for miles out of sight. I could see these hotels appealing to tourists who don’t have to travel too far to get here, but otherwise they’re a bit isolated from the city, and the beaches a bit sparse for a Western Canadian travelling a long way to dedicate much time to. That said, there are so many beaches further east and west of the city that it’s unfair to paint them all with the same brush just yet. Your mileage may vary, and feel free to comment bellow if you’ve found a favorite in the area!
For a day at the beach I was eager to shed some weight from my backpack and avoid getting sand in my lenses so opted to rely on the pocketable Olympus XA instead. With plenty of sun I was more confident in shooting with the low ISO Ferrania P30 within. Also, I don’t like to fly home with a half-used roll in the camera - that’s a good way to forget to develop it!- and I knew I had a number of shots left to take. I felt some slight regret at not having a camera with a telephoto lens when a sailboat race appeared in the distance, but they were far enough away that nothing in my arsenal would do them justice anyway. Here the water was still a bit cool, but the sun and air were warm enough to spend a few lazy hours relaxing on the sand. I took a short walk along the beach path to find some drinks and explore a bit, but nothing particularly grabbed my attention. I think a bicycle would be the method of choice for exploring this area and it really does stretch for miles so I’m sure there’s plenty to see if one’s a bit more mobile!
Sailboats racing while we relax on the beach, Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
One of many hotels along the beach, Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Wandering Palma
Exploring on foot, Palma feels like a maze. Like many cities of medieval origin, it was laid-out more so for defensibility than convenience, and certainly not with cars in mind. The narrow lanes and taller buildings also wreak havoc with phone GPS, so be ready for adventure! Direction sense in foreign places is one of my super-powers (ok it failed me once in Istanbul...but it was dark) so with a quick glance at a map I set us off in the direction of the marina.
Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
What’s behind the door? Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A favorite aspect of Mallorcan architecture for me is the beautiful alcoves tucked away behind metal gates and tall wooden doors, forming entrances and even the parking facilities to many of the buildings around us. Sometimes you’d peek through a keyhole to spot one, other times the doors or gates were wide open for you to peer inside. If I return one day I think I could dedicate an entire photo project to these beautifully designed spaces. Could you imagine hosting an event in one of these?
Entrance, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma isn’t all secluded alleyways and quiet alcoves of course, but it was interesting how quickly you could ditch the crowds if you wanted to by just stepping a block over from the lane you’re in. Still, there’s all the busy corridors, graffiti, shops and street vendors you’d expect in a town that attracts such volumes of tourists from all over the world. At the time we were there (late April) it felt busy without being overcrowded. I can imagine in peak season it can become a challenge to navigate!
Rooftops of Palma Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Approaching the seaside, passing the Basilica Santa Maria, you notice the buildings becoming larger and more grandiose. Churches and Fortresses-turned-Museums surrounded by thick, tall walls dominate the landscape and speak to a history that included everything from prominence as a major trading hub to a haven for pirates. Passing through the outer walls the world opens back up to you with a panoramic view of the harbour and marina.
Looking westward you are struck by the sheer size of the marina and the many boats and ships ranging from zodiacs to mega-yachts. Beyond, row after row of hotels line the harbour ring road. These are much more modern for the most part, looking like an area that’s been built up over the last 40 years or so judging by the architecture. We wandered that way, giving our little one a chance to gaze at the many boats, but opted to turn back as the character of the area shifted towards a somewhat colder and more overtly tourist-targeting vibe.
A large farmers market along the main harbour road (located just after the viewpoint for the Pont de Sa Riera) provided an opportunity for some snacking on the go. Plenty of artisanal goods and stalls with a variety of foods from grilled octopus to fruits and veg of every sort to keep you fueled as you explore. Food in Palma was generally good, though finding a table can be a challenge, even in the off-season. Our concierge was very helpful in providing restaurant recommendations that felt unique/authentic. Of course, the various gellateria windows are certainly welcome once the sun gets high overhead.
Ancient Walls of Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Getting closer to the waterfront, Palma, Mallorca. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Pont de Sa Riera, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Walking the Parc de la Mar, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A last Minute Idea
“It was a last minute idea” was how I opened this series on Mallorca and it turned out to be a good idea at that. As our first trip abroad with our 6 month old child, the mix of warm locals, warm weather and a not-too-busy season set the stage for a great vacation and plenty of learning for future travels. Of course a 6 month old is relatively captive to wherever we put him (stroller, playpen, etc.) so we knew this would eventually evolve, but building a practical and pragmatic understanding of what to pack, how to pick accommodations, vehicles and activities has given us some solid building blocks for future travels.
What’s caught his eye? Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
I also learned that I’d need to adapt my approach to photography in order to capture the volume and quality of images I’d like to. Coming back to my albums now, I am surprised by how few photos I actually took on this trip -remembering certain places and rooms and restaurants and thinking, “didn’t I take a photo of that”? Maneuvering a stroller through town (or carrying the little guy) and helping him get the most of his first travel experience applies a lumpy stream of demands on my focus where an hour or two can pass in a flash before I realize I haven’t lifted the camera once. When one of us is on baby-duty, the other gets the shot, or so the rule developed! On top of that I rarely have both hands free, so my manual focus film Nikon may need to be benched for a while in favor of something more compact that allows for single handed shooting. I also want more photos of our family as we evolve and continue our explorations together and I don’t want that hindered by the economics of shooting film today.
So, what tool will join my photographic toolbox next? And where will we go, for that matter? Stay tuned and find out soon! (subscribed yet?) I appreciate you stopping by and having a read and look. Do you have ideas tips/tricks to share as a fellow photography enthusiast, travelling parent, both or neither? I’d love to read them in the comments bellow. Chau!