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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.
I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.
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Mallorca - Palma
The sun came out for us in Palma and we got a taste of the heat that makes Mallorca such a popular destination for travellers. It’s here we’d get a bit of real beach-time, plenty of walking, cold drinks and al fresco dining.
Looking across the lagoon to the marina, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Read Part IV: Mallorca - Cala St. Vincenc →
The sun came out for us in Palma and we got a taste of the heat that makes Mallorca such a popular destination for travellers. It’s here we’d get a bit of real beach-time, plenty of walking, cold drinks and al fresco dining. Our accommodation, the Palma Suites Apartment Hotel is ideally situated in the historic city Center with easy walking to the marina, restaurants, shopping areas, etc. The rooftop lounging area, complete with a small pool, affords stunning views across the rooftops of this ancient city. Our room was a loft apartment with modern décor and plenty of accoutrement and appliances to support a comfortable long stay. Bonus points for feeling more like an apartment than a hotel room and for having quick modern elevators in a building that is no doubt quite old, an asset for anyone travelling with a kid and all the extra gear that entails. There aren’t a ton of facilities at the hotel but I will note the lobby bar looked like a fun place to start an evening with a funky vibe and layout maximizing it’s tiny footprint.
Part of the panoramic view from the rooftop lounge, Palma Suites, Palma Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Part of the panoramic view from the rooftop lounge, Palma Suites, Palma Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Beaches
There are a lot of options for beaches around Palma, though most require a car, bike or cab ride to get to from the city center. We chose the long strip of beach areas to the South-East beyond the airport as it seemed most likely to get the best sun throughout the day. As with most southern European beaches, the sand is free but the sunbeds take a fee, which was nothing exorbitant and well worth it for the bit of shade when you (or the kiddo) need it. There are kiosks and restaurants selling drinks and food all along the paved beach path which stretches for miles out of sight. I could see these hotels appealing to tourists who don’t have to travel too far to get here, but otherwise they’re a bit isolated from the city, and the beaches a bit sparse for a Western Canadian travelling a long way to dedicate much time to. That said, there are so many beaches further east and west of the city that it’s unfair to paint them all with the same brush just yet. Your mileage may vary, and feel free to comment bellow if you’ve found a favorite in the area!
For a day at the beach I was eager to shed some weight from my backpack and avoid getting sand in my lenses so opted to rely on the pocketable Olympus XA instead. With plenty of sun I was more confident in shooting with the low ISO Ferrania P30 within. Also, I don’t like to fly home with a half-used roll in the camera - that’s a good way to forget to develop it!- and I knew I had a number of shots left to take. I felt some slight regret at not having a camera with a telephoto lens when a sailboat race appeared in the distance, but they were far enough away that nothing in my arsenal would do them justice anyway. Here the water was still a bit cool, but the sun and air were warm enough to spend a few lazy hours relaxing on the sand. I took a short walk along the beach path to find some drinks and explore a bit, but nothing particularly grabbed my attention. I think a bicycle would be the method of choice for exploring this area and it really does stretch for miles so I’m sure there’s plenty to see if one’s a bit more mobile!
Sailboats racing while we relax on the beach, Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
One of many hotels along the beach, Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Wandering Palma
Exploring on foot, Palma feels like a maze. Like many cities of medieval origin, it was laid-out more so for defensibility than convenience, and certainly not with cars in mind. The narrow lanes and taller buildings also wreak havoc with phone GPS, so be ready for adventure! Direction sense in foreign places is one of my super-powers (ok it failed me once in Istanbul...but it was dark) so with a quick glance at a map I set us off in the direction of the marina.
Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
What’s behind the door? Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A favorite aspect of Mallorcan architecture for me is the beautiful alcoves tucked away behind metal gates and tall wooden doors, forming entrances and even the parking facilities to many of the buildings around us. Sometimes you’d peek through a keyhole to spot one, other times the doors or gates were wide open for you to peer inside. If I return one day I think I could dedicate an entire photo project to these beautifully designed spaces. Could you imagine hosting an event in one of these?
Entrance, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Palma isn’t all secluded alleyways and quiet alcoves of course, but it was interesting how quickly you could ditch the crowds if you wanted to by just stepping a block over from the lane you’re in. Still, there’s all the busy corridors, graffiti, shops and street vendors you’d expect in a town that attracts such volumes of tourists from all over the world. At the time we were there (late April) it felt busy without being overcrowded. I can imagine in peak season it can become a challenge to navigate!
Rooftops of Palma Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Approaching the seaside, passing the Basilica Santa Maria, you notice the buildings becoming larger and more grandiose. Churches and Fortresses-turned-Museums surrounded by thick, tall walls dominate the landscape and speak to a history that included everything from prominence as a major trading hub to a haven for pirates. Passing through the outer walls the world opens back up to you with a panoramic view of the harbour and marina.
Looking westward you are struck by the sheer size of the marina and the many boats and ships ranging from zodiacs to mega-yachts. Beyond, row after row of hotels line the harbour ring road. These are much more modern for the most part, looking like an area that’s been built up over the last 40 years or so judging by the architecture. We wandered that way, giving our little one a chance to gaze at the many boats, but opted to turn back as the character of the area shifted towards a somewhat colder and more overtly tourist-targeting vibe.
A large farmers market along the main harbour road (located just after the viewpoint for the Pont de Sa Riera) provided an opportunity for some snacking on the go. Plenty of artisanal goods and stalls with a variety of foods from grilled octopus to fruits and veg of every sort to keep you fueled as you explore. Food in Palma was generally good, though finding a table can be a challenge, even in the off-season. Our concierge was very helpful in providing restaurant recommendations that felt unique/authentic. Of course, the various gellateria windows are certainly welcome once the sun gets high overhead.
Ancient Walls of Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Getting closer to the waterfront, Palma, Mallorca. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Pont de Sa Riera, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Walking the Parc de la Mar, Palma, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A last Minute Idea
“It was a last minute idea” was how I opened this series on Mallorca and it turned out to be a good idea at that. As our first trip abroad with our 6 month old child, the mix of warm locals, warm weather and a not-too-busy season set the stage for a great vacation and plenty of learning for future travels. Of course a 6 month old is relatively captive to wherever we put him (stroller, playpen, etc.) so we knew this would eventually evolve, but building a practical and pragmatic understanding of what to pack, how to pick accommodations, vehicles and activities has given us some solid building blocks for future travels.
What’s caught his eye? Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
I also learned that I’d need to adapt my approach to photography in order to capture the volume and quality of images I’d like to. Coming back to my albums now, I am surprised by how few photos I actually took on this trip -remembering certain places and rooms and restaurants and thinking, “didn’t I take a photo of that”? Maneuvering a stroller through town (or carrying the little guy) and helping him get the most of his first travel experience applies a lumpy stream of demands on my focus where an hour or two can pass in a flash before I realize I haven’t lifted the camera once. When one of us is on baby-duty, the other gets the shot, or so the rule developed! On top of that I rarely have both hands free, so my manual focus film Nikon may need to be benched for a while in favor of something more compact that allows for single handed shooting. I also want more photos of our family as we evolve and continue our explorations together and I don’t want that hindered by the economics of shooting film today.
So, what tool will join my photographic toolbox next? And where will we go, for that matter? Stay tuned and find out soon! (subscribed yet?) I appreciate you stopping by and having a read and look. Do you have ideas tips/tricks to share as a fellow photography enthusiast, travelling parent, both or neither? I’d love to read them in the comments bellow. Chau!
Mallorca - Cala St. Vincenc
It didn’t seem right to do a trip to Mallorca without staying at a beachside resort of some kind, so we decided to take advantage of shoulder-season rates to stay at the Grupotel Molins, located along one of the crystal blue bays of the resort town of Cala St. Vincenc.
Cala St. Vincenc seen from the Grupotel Molins, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Circular Polarizing Filter, Kodak Ektar 100
Read Part III: Mallorca - Fornalutx →
It didn’t seem right to travel to Mallorca without staying at a beachside resort of some kind, so we decided to take advantage of shoulder-season rates and stay at the Grupotel Molins, located along one of the crystal blue bays of the resort town of Cala St. Vincenc. Despite the sunny photos you see here, April is still a bit early to enjoy the beach, or at least it was on this trip, with relatively cool weather, chilly waters and even a bit of rain during our stay. Oh well, we tried anyway and it was still a beautiful spot to spend some time relaxing and exploring.
Grupotel Molins, Cala St. Vincenc, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The Hotel and Surrounds
Originally built in the 1950’s and renovated most recently in 2020, the Molins exudes Mid-Century Modern charm with an absolutely stunning location. Our room had a terrific view of the azure waters of the bay and beautiful mountains beyond. Featuring indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, several terraces for lounging and of course quick access to the beach, this is a tough spot to beat on this corner of the island. Our room was spartan but clean and spacious, and frankly you’re not likely to spend too much time in it other than sleeping. There’s also a rather funky bar on the ground floor, which we sadly passed on due to our little travel partner’s early bed-time.
There are a number of hikes in the area, following the jagged ridges of the mountains and no-doubt offering amazing views. Our stroller wasn’t going to cut it for these, so we opted to relax by the beach instead, even if the water was a bit cool by typical sunny vacation standards. The breakfast buffet at the Molins was our starting point each morning. It was well stocked with plenty of variety, from local fare to your more typical staples of omelette stations and the like. It somehow managed to avoid feeling chaotic as such setups often do, and it was easy enough to find something to satiate a picky near-toddler and his parents.
Grupotel Molins on the right, Cala St. Vincenc, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Grupotel Molins, Cala St. Vincenc, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Circular Polarizing Filter, Kodak Portra 400
Cala Molins, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Exploring the Area
On a couple of the cloudier days of our stay we decided to drive around and explore. Nearby Cabo Formentor is a frequently photographed rocky outcrop complete with lighthouse that seemed a relatively easy morning excursion. Seemed being the operative word. As alluded to in a few other posts, some of the roads here are quite old and thus fairly narrow. So, when you put a bunch of road cyclists, tour busses and cars on the same stretch, climbing a 15% grade full of blind corners for example, progress is slow. I’m sure we could have timed that drive better, but regardless it afforded plenty of opportunity to soak in the scenery and an early car-seat nap for the little one.
Unfortunately for us, the road to the lighthouse viewpoint was closed several kilometers short of the destination with no indication of this in advance. The mix of cars attempting to park on the non-existent shoulder, execute U-turns, or otherwise sit in confusion, meant it took nearly 30min to turn around once we realized we could go no further. Oh well, we stopped for a few snaps along the return journey and headed for Port de Pollenca for a walk by the marina.
Near Cabo Formentor, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Port de Pollenca is essentially what you see in your mind when you read “Tourist Town”. Every block seems to have a different ‘Irish’ pub, bar, tour company and tourist trinket shop. Not quite what we were looking for, but an enjoyable walk regardless along the beachside road and past the marina to pass the time. We did find a great farm-to-table restaurant for dinner called Zarzales which served a variety of Mallorcan dishes in a quaint and relaxed setting. The paella and lamb were particularly tasty.
Port de Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Our radius of travel from the hotel was relatively small, but we still found plenty to enjoy. The town of Pollenca (not to be confused with Port de Pollenca) was a short distance away and a lovely place to wander. With the requisite restaurants and cafes and their vibrant patios spilling out onto the street, large churches with bells ringing out and shops of all sorts squeezed into tiny spaces, it just felt more “real” than the port, which I’m sure sounds funny coming from a tourist.
Bicycle in Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
On the outskirts of Pollenca we stumbled upon Son Brull Hotel & Spa, a captivating blend of ancient and mid-century modern design. The hotel's exterior, marked by slab sides and towering solid wood doors, hints at the luxury within. During our visit, we were drawn in for a cocktail and ended up staying for a delightful late lunch on one of it’s patios. Son Brull appeared the perfect retreat for those who appreciate pampering, local cycling routes (favored by pro riders for training), and an exquisite ambience. It's a must-consider for any return trip.
Son Brull Sanctuary Hotel & Spa, Pollenca, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Speaking of return trips, our ensuing journey back to Palma for a couple of nights of Mallorcan big-city living took a scenic detour along some B-roads through the countryside. The decision proved worthwhile, offering serene views that made the drive a memorable and relaxing shift into the final phase of our trip. During my initial research on Mallorcan accommodations, I discovered numerous reasonably priced villa stays in the inland areas and foothills of the mountains. While we did stay at one near the coast on the outskirts of Soller, the drive revealed a plethora of additional options scattered across the island – from grandiose to simple and quaint. I would absolutely select one of these for a future stay, particularly if I wanted to join the cycling crowd with some likeminded friends and pound out some miles on the pavement in our own peloton before returning to mix cocktails and relax by a pool. As we navigated the empty winding roads, the romantic allure of Mallorca's interior unfolded with tree-lined paths and charming stone walls. A delightful reconnaissance for potential future stays.
One of many villas along our winding road in Mallorca. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The countryside behind us, we finally arrive in Palma. Google map’s directions seemed determined to shave the mirrors off my car (again) so after looping the neighbourhood several times we parked up on a sidewalk and walked our bags over to our accommodation a couple of blocks away. The friendly concierge at the Palma Suites Apartment Hotel helps me get my bearings so I can find an official parking zone while my wife and kiddo prepare to wander out and find dinner. Just a few days left to enjoy our trip, how will Palma pan out?
Rooftops of Palma Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Mallorca - Soller
Soller was buzzing with activity when we were there. While there were plenty of tourists, it’s clear that there is a large local community here and the buzz of them going about their day creates a great vibe in the town center. While bigger than Deia, Soller is by no means large, and exploring it on foot is the best way to go for the most part, especially with the aforementioned narrow lanes.
View from the living room, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Read Part I: Mallorca - First Taste of Spain →
After a beautiful stay in Deia, we drove just 15km or so to our next destination, a small villa we booked in the hills above Soller. The drive, like most on the periphery of the island, is winding and beautiful, with scenic vistas at every turn. It’s also quite narrow, with no passing lanes and many cyclists, so always bank on it taking about double the time you expect. Soller occupies a broad valley and stretches right down to the sea at the westernmost end (Port de Soller). As I dutifully followed google maps towards our stay we quickly encountered a bit of a snag. The route took us through the heart of the city, and as it did, the road got narrower and narrower until our right and left side tires were squealing along the curbs! It got worse before it got better as we came up to a 90 degree right hand bend. Through a feat of geometric genius, we managed to navigate the gauntlet and thankfully the road widened on the other side. Lesson learned, if it’s getting skinny, get out and scout on foot first!
Not entirely sure I was supposed to drive this way, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Casa Azva
I really wanted to experience at least one private stay on this trip, and this would be it. We booked Casa Azva on AirBnb after a protracted, indecisive search online on various booking sites. Mallorca is absolutely full of villa stays, and in the shoulder season many are incredibly good value, so it can be tough to choose. In our case we wanted someplace quiet with a view, and scored 10/10 on both points. The challenge here is that your vehicle parking is at the bottom of the property, so you need to be comfortable with a 5 minute walk up the occasionally steep hill to your accommodation.
The villa itself was quaint and cozy, with two bedrooms, a full kitchen and a wood burning fireplace that we made good use of in the cool evenings of the mountainside. The villa is located on the outskirts of Soller near the village of Biniaraix, it’s about a 20min walk into town but we usually drove given the unpredictable nature of travelling with a little one. There are a few restaurants near the accommodation and many hiking trails in the hills behind for those feeling adventurous!
Casa Azva, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Casa Azva, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
View from our yard, Casa Azva, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Living room, Casa Azva, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Around Town
Soller was buzzing with activity when we were there. While there were plenty of tourists, it’s clear that there is a large local community here and the buzz of them going about their day creates a great vibe in the town center. While bigger than Deia, Soller is by no means large, and exploring it on foot is the best way to go for the most part, especially with the aforementioned narrow lanes. Hungry and want to try a great local snack? Ensaimadas, are a local delicacy available fresh or pre-packaged in many if not all of the local bakeries. Essentially a sweet bread with powdered sugar on top, it’s a tasty treat for between meals. Fresh squeezed juices are also available from some shops and these are both tastier and less costly than bottled drinks. To try more local fare, or bring some fresh food back to your villa to cook-up yourselves, try the Mercat-Municipal; a large indoor market with butchers, bakers, fish and fresh local produce.
For us, one of the highlights of Soller was simply sitting outside a cafe sipping espresso and watching the world walk by, but as with all such trips we needed to do some exploring, and Soller has a particularly beautiful way of helping you do just that. The town is bisected by a tramway that carries the Tren De Soller, a vintage light-rail carriage that takes you on a 5km journey from near the the city center at the Plaza de la Constitución to the beautiful harbour village of Port du Soller (with a few stops along the way). While you don’t need to ride the Tren to explore Soller itself, it is the ideal way to visit Port du Soller for it’s beaches and seaside cafes and bars.
The Tren de Soller passes right through the central square in Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
“For us, one of the highlights of Soller was simply sitting outside a cafe sipping espresso and watching the world walk by.”
Plaza de la Constitución, Soller Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A few more tables and kiosks outside the Mercat-Municipal, Soller Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Soller Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Port Du Soller
Port Du Soller is the beautiful seaside sibling to the more densely laid out Soller. Built around a bay with a narrow opening to the Balearic Sea, this little town may just be the archetypal southern European beachfront village. The Tren line runs along the east bank of the bay, covering about half it’s circumference with a few stops along the way. We found it best to hop off at the very first stop as the rest of the town is very walkable and indeed that’s a great way to enjoy it. We spent a bit of time on the beach, but late April proved a bit cool yet for swimming (I tried). There are many restaurants all facing inward towards the water and a beautiful marina where I’m sure boat rentals and charters are an enticing option, but we weren’t going to try that with our 6 month old in tow.
The Port is a great place to spend a day, and while it’s clearly “touristy” it doesn’t feel obtrusively so and is indeed beautiful enough to invest the time in a visit if you’re on this coast. I suspect during the summer the beach is absolutely packed and the atmosphere overall must be amazing. In late spring it was relatively quiet but in glorious sunshine we didn’t mind a more relaxed day. Absent the beach, there are plenty of cafe’s restaurants and gellaterias to enjoy, as well as a marine museum and various boat-tour operators.
The tren passing by in Port du Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens with circular polarizing filter, Kodak Portra 400
The Marina in Port Du Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens with circular polarizing filter, Kodak Portra 400
Interlude
On the Soller leg of our Mallorca trip the sun finally came out in full force and so did my trusty Olympus XA loaded with Film Ferrania’s P30. I’d never shot this film stock before, and with an ISO (ASA) of just 80 I was a bit nervous about trying until I had some really bright light. It felt like a bit of a risk entrusting a lesser known film stock on a trip abroad, but wow am I happy I did.
P30 is a newly manufactured film with high silver content which Ferrania claim provides high-contrast with minimal grain in an effort to capture the look of Italian cinema of the mid 20th century. It delivers triumphantly. While that low sensitivity means it’s not very versatile (a tripod might help with that), when it shines it’s utterly gorgeous. Enjoy a couple shots here and you’ll see more as I cover the second half of the trip.
Port Du Soller, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
The Tren passing through Port Du Soller, Mallorca, Olympus XA, Ferrania P30
Oops, a car race!
I think it was the third day of our visit to Soller that I awoke to the sounds of engines screaming across the valley. At first I figured some motoring enthusiasts were having a go at the delightfully twisty roads before the local police force had gotten out of bed. It was my wife that noted that the consistency of the sounds which reminded her of attending one of my car races back home. I hadn’t read about any tracks in the area, so what could it be?
It was actually quite challenging to find any mention online about an organized motorsport event, so we decided to hop in the car and drive towards the sound until we found something. It turns out there was a hill-climb race going on that weekend, and they had shut several kilometers of the road north out of Soller down to run it for the day. I raced hill climb in Canada about ten years ago (and won “King of the Hill” at Knox Mountain on my final attempt) so was absolutely delighted to see how it’s done here in Mallorca. The cars for the most part were much different from what I typically would see back home, so that in itself was exciting. I unfortunately had a roll of Kodak Ektar 100 in the camera that morning, which is not the right film for high speed action photography, but I tried my best and got most of my best shots as they came back down the hill. (Always a potential downside to committing to film photography on a trip)
Holy Sh!t, a Renault 5 Turbo, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
BMW 2002, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Serious Sports Racer, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Bike Engined open-wheeler, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
MG haulin’ butt, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The ubiquitous E30, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Renault racer, Soller, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
We would have the opportunity to drive the hill climb route as we left Soller a day or so later and I can confirm (despite the rather anemic engine in our rental) that this would have been an amazing route to race with sharp corners with an incredible amount of banking that should allow for high G’s and big grins. Perhaps I can arrange an arrive & drive on a future visit!
Our next stay would be a seaside resort in Cala St. Vincenc, but not before a brief stop to visit a friend in the beautiful village or Fornalutx -a gem of a location not to be missed on your way out of Soller!
Mallorca - First Taste of Spain
It was a last minute idea. From intention, to booking, to flight in less than two weeks. It’s not often one makes a significant career change, and this one warranted a few weeks abroad to rest and reset. Mallorca was not an obvious destination for us, coming from Vancouver where Hawaii or Mexico might be the more frequented, and frankly closer, destinations.
The Pool at La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
It was a last minute idea. From intention, to booking, to flight in less than two weeks. It’s not often one makes a significant career change, and this one warranted a few weeks abroad to rest and reset. Mallorca was not an obvious destination for us, coming from Vancouver where Hawaii or Mexico might be the more frequented, and frankly closer, destinations. But shoulder season meant there were some amazing deals to be had, and if you’re going to spend the same money, why not try somewhere new? With that in mind and our 6 month old in tow, we created a simple plan; 2 weeks, 4 stays, 4 very different approaches to beautiful Mallorca.
Tempting, but no baby seat. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
La Residencia
This one was my wife’s pick. Her reasoning? -You’ve worked your butt off for years, let’s treat ourselves and start with a real rest. Of course, our prior 6 months with our young son had been exhausting as well, so a touch of luxury was well earned by all. La Residencia sits in the beautiful valley-village of Deia on the western side of Mallorca. It’s about a 45min car ride from Palma airport depending how many cyclists are on the road -more on this in a later post. The hotel is owned by Belmond, a hospitality company dedicated to creating amazing experiences for it’s guests.
The history of the compound dates back to medieval times and has changed hands and purpose many times. It was most recently owned by Sir Richard Branson, before being acquired by Belmond (LVMH). The hotel blends luxury and exceptional service with ancient charm and architecture quite seamlessly as it’s myriad buildings seem to be chiseled right out of the hillside it occupies. A village within a village. Upon arrival, our bags are cheerfully grabbed by porters as the valet hops in to park the car and we are whisked off to the patio where champagne awaited. It took about two minutes of sitting, sipping, and listening to the live piano before I melted into my chair.
The patio at Cafe Miro, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Reception waiting area, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Our patio, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A few glasses of champagne later we made our way up to our suite near the top of the property above the main pool and breakfast area. We were delighted to find a large room with a four post bed, private patio with a mountain view, a bottle of wine and some fruit and chocolate as well as a crib already setup for our son. Inside the crib, a toddler-sized branded canvass backpack for him with a stuffy inside -nice touch. It can be challenging to find accommodations such as these that permit young children, but here our son was welcomed warmly. There’s even a family center with activities for kids although our little guy was too young to take advantage of it this time around.
Part of the main road that bisects Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
That first night we hadn’t made reservations so we decided to wander the town and find a place to eat. All three of us were jet-lagged, and I’m sure the little guy hadn’t the slightest idea what was going on. On the recommendation of the hotel we walked to Restaurante Sebastian in the center of the village. As we carried our little stroller up the three steps into the restaurant my first thought was “uh-oh” -I was the only guy without a sport-coat on, and there wasn’t another stroller in sight between the white linen covered tables. We were about to spin around and leave when the owner warmly greeted us and directed us to an open table. It was here we really realized what a family friendly culture we’d stepped in to in Mallorca. As we ordered our meal, the owner swept our son from his high-chair and began to show him around the restaurant stopping at various guest tables, and off to the kitchen to show the chef. The meal was a delight and the distraction for our son meant we could eat it in peace. Amazing.
This happened to us again on the second night when we ate at El Olivo on La Residencia’s property. In this case the waiter excitedly told us how he hopes to have a son like ours one day before whisking him off to parade around the restaurant. This certainly wouldn’t happen back home, but it was most welcomed!
Looking down on Son Fony from our private yard, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
La Residencia’s property itself is massive, you could spend an entire morning just wandering the grounds as we did, and you might even stumble upon the resident donkeys!
Couple of locals, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
On the second day we were delighted to be invited to enjoy afternoon cocktails on the lawn by Thomas, general manager of the hotel. His passionate articulation of his vision for the future of the property -retaining it’s old-world charm while updating the rooms with more modern amenities- certainly has us looking forward to a return visit one day.
Terraced hillside of La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The indoor pool at La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Wandering Deia
Deia, and Cala Deia below it, is a gorgeous village nestled in a u-shaped valley with a small mount in the center. It is well known for art and ex-pats, in fact there are hardly any “locals” at all, with workers traveling here from other towns. It is in effect a ‘one-road town’, at least as far as cars are concerned, and like most of the Mallorcan coast, that road is winding with remarkably tight corners in places. I do recommend renting a small car to get here (and indeed most of the places we traveled on this trip), but once in town everything is walking distance. There are a few shops, cafes, and restaurants as you might expect, but it truly is a small village so don’t come expecting a lot more than that. Boutiques and galleries are hidden down many lanes and alleys, so be sure to venture off the main road and get lost a little.
If you make your way down a steep switch-backing road to the west of town you find yourself in Cala Deia, a tiny fishing cove with a rocky beach and locally famous seafood restaurant Patro March. The food was good with an excellent view of the cove. In the summer I imagine Cala Deia is an amazing place for a swim and day in the sun, but in April, it would be tough even in a wetsuit! I tried regardless, but got out pretty quickly.
Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Deia in the hazy morning light, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Thankfully it’s a light stroller! Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Box of Fruit, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
“Boutiques and galleries are hidden down many lanes and alleys, so be sure to venture off the main road and get lost a little.”
The main street through Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
There’s only one route up the west coast, so every town becomes a tourist stop. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
It gets narrower. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
He didn’t seem enthused about giving directions. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Wandering Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Parting Thoughts
You could cover Deia in half a day, but stay at La Residencia for much longer. Four nights suited us best, and while we were sad to go, we knew we had a lot more to see ahead. From here we’d be heading to Soller, just a winding half hour further up the coast from Deia. We set the bar pretty high (again) at the beginning of our trip, how would our next destination on the island compare?
Spend the day sitting here? Don’t mind we I do. La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?