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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.
I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.
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Portugal - Cabanas do Lago
As we approach the area the dam becomes visible towering over a small valley. The road soon changes from paved to dirt, but nothing most cars can’t handle. We snake along it’s winding path and turn off onto a steep sided valley that surrounds one of the hundreds of coves around the perimeter of the lake. At the end of the road we see the large main house appear through the trees and are immediately greeted by one of the smiling hosts, Filipa, as we arrive.
Albufeira da Barragem de Santa Clara, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO100 1/100 f11
Change of Pace
Read Part I: Portugal - Lagos →
Back home, it’s quite common for us to book a few weekend getaways out of the city in a quiet cabin by a lake or the ocean and just relax in peace enjoying the views and explore the surrounding nature. We’re not typically doing quite the same abroad, and yet somehow this location called to us, and I’m glad it did. A bit of tourist overload in Lagos drive us to seek out our next stay a little off the beaten path. When we found the Cabanas do Lago on airbnb it immediately stood out with its 4.99 star rating and promise of simple and quiet serenity. It happened to have a pocket of availability for a few nights so we booked it as the next stop on our trip.
We had plenty of time to get there ahead of check-in, so decided to take a scenic route up along the west coast then cut back inland towards our destination. We knew we’d pass through some small towns along the way, so figured it easy enough to sort out lunch on the road, and perhaps stop at any destinations that caught our eye while we were at it. The hope was that our son would at some point nap in the car, leaving us an afternoon to settle-in to the cabin before having dinner. If you enjoy driving/riding, the roads in this area are sublime. We avoided the major highways and A roads and stuck to the windy roads that weave their way through the rolling hills. The roads are largely empty, generally cambered in your favour, and a delight of corners and short straights connecting them. A short squeeze on my arm reminded me that our econo-box Citroen was probably not at it’s best at my preferred pace, but even at a decent canter it kept the drive interesting. So would Google Maps, it turns out, as once again relying on it in this corner of Europe was not without it’s problems -read on and see why!
Approaching Praia da Amoreira (sort of), Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO160 1/200 f16
Praia da Amoreira
The weather was lovely on this travel day, so we decided to make a bit of a detour to stop at a beach to enjoy our first peek at Portugal’s west coast. It differs significantly from the south-facing Algarve, with broad white sand beaches, rather than the more secluded cliff-lined coves. It also faces the full brunt of the Atlantic ocean with larger waves and steady breezes. Amoreira sits where the mouth of a river meets the Ocean and we’d read that it was among the more beautiful beaches to visit in the area and was also flanked by a restaurant. Our map showed the beach as roughly 9km off our main route of travel, so not a big deal. We faithfully made our way along the revised route until we came to stop by a cliffside restaurant overlooking a beach. Our beach. Uh oh. Wrong side of the river.
While the route certainly took us to a place we could view the beach, there was no way to safely reach it from this spot, with a cliff and river between us and our beach destination. I checked my inputs into Google Maps and indeed the app thought we could access the beach from here, but no such luck. I would take 18km of driving to bring us to the beach just a couple hundred meters away. Fortunately, this little detour passed some stunning views, and with the little guy asleep in his car seat ahead of schedule, we decided to stop at a few spots on our way back to take a few photos where we wouldn’t otherwise be comfortable with him running about.
Aren’t we supposed to be over there? Lagos, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/200 f16
Looking down upon Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/200 f16
Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/200 f16
Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO160 1/200 f16
Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/2500 f3.5
Eventually we made our way to the beach we intended to visit, and just in time for the weather to start to turn. We spent a scant few minutes on the beach before the clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped. Oh well, time for lunch anyway and time to get back on the road. As the detour set our schedule back a bit, we decided to skip the beachside restaurant in favour of picking something up at a shop or bakery along out main route.
Rocky formation on Praia da Amoreira, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO400 1/100 f16
Praia da Amoreira, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/200 f8.
Waiting while Vicky finds us some food, somewhere in southern Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO100 1/1250 f4
Cabanas do Lago
The Albufeira da Barragem de Santa Clara is an enormous man-made reservoir supported by a concrete dam at it’s west end. As we approach the area the dam becomes visible towering over a small valley. The road soon changes from paved to dirt, but nothing most cars can’t handle. We snake along it’s winding path and turn off onto a steep sided valley that surrounds one of the hundreds of coves around the perimeter of the lake. At the end of the road we see the large main house appear through the trees and are immediately greeted by one of the smiling hosts, Filipa, as we arrive.
The Cabanas do Lago property consists of a two storey main house and a pair of smaller cabins, all nestled into the side of a steeply sloped terraced hillside. The ground floor of the main house is communal and contains the kitchen and a living/dining area as well as a patio dining area with a view towards the lake. The family that owns and operates the property lives on the second floor. Our cabin was just the right size for the two of us essentially two rooms; a large bedroom, and a bathroom with shower. Glass doors making up the west wall give us a view onto the valley from our bed and ensures it’s nice and bright inside. (Cabin Photo Credit: Victoria Petriw on the XPro2)
Within minutes of arriving Filipa and her husband Luis make you feel at home and like friends of the family. The wine and beer flows and Filipa prepares an amazing meal for us to all share together on the first night. This would very much be the theme of this stay, particularly in the evenings with us hanging out with Filipa and Luis into the late hours of the night, learning about life in Portugal and how they decided to relocate their family here from busy Lisbon a few years prior. As you might suspect, other guests we met here tended to be fairly like-minded travellers as well, and we enjoyed hearing each others stories and plans for what’s next. Most days and nights we cooked meals for ourselves in the communal kitchen area and enjoyed the relaxing surroundings, but did also make one excursion out for dinner to Casa Nirvana, about half an hour’s drive away, for a change of pace. Speaking of food, the little hamlet of Santa Clara a Velha sits near enough for quick grocery runs if needed and has a couple of restaurants as well.
A nice view with breakfast, Cabanas do Lago, Samsung S20FE, ISO40 1/1600 f1.8
Looking towards the main house from the garden, Cabanas do Lago, Ricoh GRiii ISO 400 1/8 f5
View from the main house patio, note the water line, Cabanas do Lago, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/100 f11
Like staying at a friends’ house, Cabanas do Lago, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO4000 1/25 f2.8
The approach to the main house, Cabanas do Lago, Portugal, iPhone XR ISO25 1/400 f1.8 (Credit: Vicky Petriw)
Activities in the area are naturally lake-centric and I was a bit hesitant to take the camera out most days for fear of dropping it in the water. An excursion on a canoe allowed us to visit the dam and enjoy a designated swimming area near it’s base, as well as a lovely food truck (bus) parked next to it with a rooftop patio of it’s own. It was at a point about 4 meters from shore, however; that we realized our son does not like canoes and was instead seemingly prepared to jump out of it at the first moment of inattention from one of us. “He’ll get used to it” was followed by 90 minutes or so of yelling and crying. Luckily, stuffing him full of empanadas helped, and the trip back was more relaxed.
There was an interesting tower near the dam, standing starkly with it’s brutalist design against the more organic landscape. It sat high and dry as a forgotten sentinel of a time when the lake was full to the brim. Remarkable to see it has a scale for water depth painted on the side, the bottom of which is many meters above the waterline. Another favorite activity for me was getting out on a paddle-board a bit before sunset and just exploring across the lake at random. Our hosts provide a variety of options for getting on the water and you’ll definitely want to give them a try. Stargazers also take note, it’s properly dark here in the evenings, setting the stage for beautiful night skies. The highlight for our son, (definitely not the canoe), was trying to track down the loudly croaking frogs that occasionally hopped around the property in the evening.
Tower on the Albufeira de Barragem da Santa Clara, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Back to Beaches
I definitely recommend this spot for those looking for a peaceful little detour and opportunity to meet and connect with some amazing people on your next visit to Portugal. Our hosts graciously shared an abundance of recommendations for the remainder of our journey, offering a multitude of dining options to explore, landmarks to see en route to Comporta, our upcoming stop, and activities to engage in within Lisbon and its vicinity during the later part of our travels. Our time at the lake ended all too quickly, but by the end we felt refreshed and ready for more exploration ahead.
Nice place for a sit, Cabanas do Lago, Portugal. Ricoh GRiii,
Undersea Fiji - Viwa
The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond.
A Garden of Coral, Viwa Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
As I described in my last post, the Island of Viwa is an isolated place, situated on the extreme Western edge of the Yasawa group of the Fijian Islands. It’s a long boat ride from anywhere, so I recommend the short 25 minute float-plane/chopper flight from Nadi rather than the ferry-boat transfer option. Crossing the choppy seas in a small vessel can be daunting for some, and eats up most of a day you’d rather spend on the beach or beneath the waves.
So, let’s dive right in, shall we?
Eagle rays patrol the edge of the reef. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond. Because of the shape and location of the gap, it inevitably meant jumping some big waves whilst passing quite close to the rusting wreck of a vessel that didn’t quite get it right. Yikes. Once through the gap the sea is your oyster and a myriad of potential dive sites awaits you.
Clownfish and it’s Anemone, Olympus Tough TG3, Macro setting, Dive Housing
Clownfish guarding eggs, Olympus Tough TG3, Macro setting, Dive Housing
Unlike the Rainbow Reef where my focus was on the smaller denizens of the sea, in the waters surrounding Viwa it was some of the larger creatures and vistas that caught my gaze and lens. That’s not to say there weren’t plenty of the little guys around (as you see above), but there were certainly an abundance of larger fish one simply couldn’t ignore.
The Viwa dive sites we visited (The Zoo, Coral Garden and Fantasea) were all characterized by a fairly deep dive profile and rolling coral mounts that dropped off into the vanishing deep blue of the open ocean. We would slowly dive along the edge of these precipices, splitting our attention between the corals and rocks on one side, and the vast blue nothing on the other - waiting for something to appear.
Bilo leading the way, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
I was fortunate to be the only diver at Viwa that week and so was able to enjoy the solitude of the sea with just Bilo, the dive leader, to guide me to his favorite spots. He always seemed to know where to stop and wait for the magic to happen, and he clearly liked the pelagic fish most of all.
Giant Trevally swims in from the blue, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Schools of Barracuda and Rainbow Runners crossing paths, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Barred Mackerel gets close, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
One of the neat things about stopping to observe the fish is the opportunity to note behavior you might not have noticed before. Bilo and I hovered motionless in one spot for about 10 minutes just watching the world swim by and noting how the fish reacted (or didn’t) to our presence. A glint of sunlight in my peripheral vision attracted me to one interesting and unexpected display. A pair of Dogtooth Tuna were playing around in the open water, one swimming just above the other but tilted so that it was swimming on it’s side, and smacking the tuna bellow it with it’s tail as it went. I literally laughed into my regulator watching this playtime unfold before us, imagining one to be the older sibling mercilessly teasing the other. Not what I was expecting to see from a fish that can reach nearly 2.5m in length and 150kg.
Dogtooth Tuna Playing around. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
At the dive site known as “The Zoo”, the sheer volume of fish on display can not be understated. At any moment any of the above would show up, plus a variety of Turtles, Rays and yes, Sharks, including a mismatched pair of Black Tip and White Tip Reef Sharks that together seemed to be patrolling the zone between reef and the deep.
Black Tip Reef Shark, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Eagle Ray Pair, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Looking for the EAC? Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Lone Barracuda follows me around for a bit. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
White Tip gets real close, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
For snorkelers, the area immediately off the beach is a bit barren, but venturing closer to the barrier reef quickly produces more interesting sites and varieties of fish to see. You probably want to do this with a buddy, as it requires getting a bit far from shore and the outbound current can be strong depending on the tides. I challenge you to find the garden of colorful giant clams, it’s hidden in plain sight straight off shore from the resort’s gear hut. I also highly recommend the guided snorkeling tour, which takes you by boat to a site not otherwise reachable from the resort. There we saw more sharks (including a leopard shark! - no photo I’m afraid) and more varieties of coral and fish.
Resting Grouper, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
You could probably spend your entire Viwa dive trip at “The Zoo” and not get bored (we went twice), but there’s plenty to see at all the sites and plenty of sites I didn’t yet see! I’m often curious how dive operators in these places discover and plot-out the dive sites they’ll take visitors to. Is it by trial and error, general local knowledge, or perhaps leveraging past research? If you have some ideas I’d love to hear from you in the comments section down bellow.
School of Trevally, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Regardless which site you dive, seeing Viwa from beneath the waves is a must. You can plunge right into the wild and be back at the resort in time for lunch. It's hidden treasure trove of natural beauty forming the perfect compliment to your relaxing beach-time topside.
Bilo leads back out of the cave, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Little Viwa
The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long…
Viwa Island Resort, Viwa Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
Read Part IV: Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef →
Viwa is the westernmost of Fiji’s 330 islands. Sitting 23 kilometers from it’s nearest neighbor and surrounded by it’s own barrier reef, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re a long way from nowhere out here. Our original plan was to take a float plane over from Nadi, thus saving the half day boat trip over seas that can occasionally be a bit rough. Unfortunately, we received notice a few days before the trip that the plane was out of commission; luckily the airline had an alternative for us…
Flying over Waya on the way to Viwa, Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor lens, Kodak Ektar 100
With the float-plane out of commission and the airline committed to getting us to our destination, they offered us a ride over in their little helicopter. Talk about making a grand entrance to the resort! This was a first for me, and I loved the experience. On the way to Viwa you have to fly over the Mamanuca Island chain, famous for it’s picture-perfect tiny islands and the exclusive resorts tucked inside them. Our pilot was something of a hot-shot who loved getting low to the islands, and up close to the mountain tops and cliffs we passed along the way. From the water you wouldn’t see much more than the island shores, so this bonus sight-seeing again validated our decision to fly. In a short 25 minutes we were over Viwa and landing on the soft grass helipad behind the resort with smiles and waves from the staff greeting us to our home for the next week.
Tivua Island, Fiji, NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Approach to Viwa, Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
In stark contrast to the mountainous landscapes of eastern Vanua Levu, Viwa is flat as a pancake, rising just a few meters above sea level and nestled within an encircling barrier reef. Our home for this week would be the Viwa Island Resort, located on the eastern shore of the island. There are three villages on the island, which are home to most of the staff here. The resort itself is simple, with about a dozen small private villas just a few meters up from the beach, each with it’s own thatched umbrellas and sun-beds out front on the sand. The main pavilion serves as restaurant, bar and activity center. We quickly settled into a rhythm that was focused on relaxation, soaking up some sun, and (in my case) snorkeling and diving. Compared to The Remote Resort, I’d say the feel here was a bit more spartan and laissez-faire, with most of your time spent on the beach with a good book or drink (or both) in hand. There are a few guided activities, and aside from snorkeling I’d say fishing from a little boat by hand-reel (like the locals do) was one of my favorites. Turns out i’m no better at that than I am with a fishing rod in hand.
Divers take note: While the resort offers scuba diving, the dive leader is not a full time resident of the resort. Call or email in advance to ensure they’ve scheduled him to be there for your visit, thus avoiding disappointment! And yes it’s worth diving here, as you’ll see in this post!
Viwa Island Resort Beach from Cabin 7, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Viwa Island Resort Beach Walk, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
A lovely place to read, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The reef here is not quite as healthy as those we experienced off Vanua Levu, but the snorkeling is still a treat, especially with the many turtles, parrot fish and trigger fish that call the waters right off the resort home. We even spotted a blacktip reef shark and a sleeping leopard shark while enjoying the guided snorkeling in the deeper waters further south on the island. The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long (and did, when I wanted to get another drink or snack!) and just enjoy the feeling of it beneath my toes.
The food for the resort is harvested right on site for the most part, either from the sea or the extensive gardens tucked behind the villa area. I highly recommend asking for a quick tour of the facility as it’s really well thought-out, right down to the solar power cells that provide the power and heat for hot water. At a site like this, sustainability is survivability -both economically and environmentally- when considering the delicate ecosystems in play and the distances from alternative suppliers.
Visiting the vegetable growing fields behind the resort. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Viwa Veggies, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Viwa was a lovely spot for a break. Perhaps not as adventurous in feel as I would normally seek-out (though the diving took care of that) but nonetheless a great place to just chill and take in the beauty of the sea and the warmth of the sand. As with many such places, the opportunity to make friends is there at meal time and happy hour, but the setup is really ideally suited for couples; and allows a sufficient feel of seclusion for you to enjoy each-others company without having to step through walls of tourists to find a spot to relax.
When it came time to leave Viwa, we received word that our float plane was still broken, and now so-to was the helicopter (yikes?). The boat trip back reaffirmed what a good idea it was to try to fly in and out of this little island paradise. A quick evening storm the night before and the ensuing winds whipped up waves that made the trip feel more like an obstacle course than anything else. That said, running the gauntlet of waves at the lone narrow break in the barrier reef is experience enough to get most thrill-seekers grinning ear to ear, so if you dig that then give it a go! You’ll have to anyway, if you’re going to reach the dives sites beyond.
Viwa and the Sea, Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
Planning my dive with Bilo, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
Let's Get Remote
They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis.
The Pier at The Remote Resort. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100,
The decision to visit Fiji was made quickly. Unusual for us, where months of analysis paralysis typically precedes any trip abroad. It had been a typically soggy Vancouver winter and spring, and we wanted to visit someplace a little off the beaten path (for us Canadians at least) with warm waters, palm trees and few expectations beyond that. We booked our flights in April for September, and promptly forgot to do anything else until the warm sunshine of July reminded us that we had a trip to plan out. While the Fijian islands are rife with beautiful mega-resorts our temperament has been to seek the quieter spots in the places we visit. Fiji did not disappoint with our options in this regard.
The Pier from above. DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
The Remote Resort
They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis. It took some effort to get here, a small plane ride from Nadi to Taveuni and then a 45min boat trip to the resort, but this just added to the sense that you were truly getting away from everything. There are 8 villas to choose from, all with spectacular ocean views, and a main pavilion that serves as bar, restaurant and meeting place. Other than that your backstop is a lush tropical jungle and your front yard is the crystal clear South Pacific -not bad.
Our Villa at Remote Resort. NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Coffee and breakfast at the main pavilion. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
We swapped to an unbooked villa at the end of our trip so we could stay a bit longer. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
The staff make you feel welcome right away, with a greeting song as your boat approaches the resorts’ lone pier. They’ve already taken the time to memorize your names, and use them throughout your stay. This quickly makes you feel like part of the family, and encourages you to try the same! You quickly learn that the Fijian’s are an extremely musical people, everyone sings and it seems no-one is bashful! From the pier our host, Katoni, takes us to our welcoming kava ceremony. We knew nothing about kava before that morning, but came to quickly enjoy the relaxing effect it has on the body and mind. And hey, we were here to relax, right? Well yes and no, see I’m a diver and one that’s well aware that just a few kilometers off-shore rests The Rainbow Reef, purportedly first documented by Jacques Cousteau himself, and considered one of the worlds great dive sites. While Remote lacks a dive shop of it’s own, they’re well set-up to connect you with one of the dive co.’s on Taveuni, and even provide a shuttle boat ride to meet them at the reef. Even if you aren’t comfortable with tanks on your back, the snorkeling right off the beach at Remote is second to none and ensures you don’t miss out on Fiji’s amazing undersea treasures. (More on the diving to follow in a subsequent blog post!)
The first day at Remote goes by in a blur and the deep dark of the true night sky quickly lulls us to sleep. In fact, we slept an average of 10 hours per night during our week-long stay here. A combination of the lack of light pollution and the soothing soft crash of waves against the shore forming the perfect sleep aid -assisted by a few sips of kava, of course.
Beachside torches being lit at dusk. Nikon FE, 135mm Nikkor-Q Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Excursions and Activities
If you wanted to spend your entire visit somewhere between your villa, the beach and the main pavilion for food and drinks you’d easily have a wonderful time. But if you’re the restless type like us, there’s plenty to do outside the confines of the resort, and the staff are happy to accommodate. The “Hidden Beach Castaway Day” is a must for couples, a way to get even more remote than the resort itself. Dropped off with a picnic lunch and drinks, the rest is up to your imagination. Honeymooners take note.
The Hidden Beach at dawn. DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
The Hidden Beach, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, the Manta Snorkeling experience might be right up your alley. Easily one of my favorite sights under the sea, I jump at any chance to see them up close. The site is all the way up near Rabi Island, so it’s a decent boat ride but the scenery along the way is lovely as you’d expect. Gather up your courage before jumping in because the water is deep and in our case quite wavy. My wife Victoria -who is a fan of neither of those scenarios, nor large sea creatures- drew inspiration from the 76 year old Venetian couple who were the first to jump in, to then leap in after us and join the search for these majestic creatures. The Mantas didn’t disappoint. With 5 meter wing-spans and the grace of ballerinas, they swam straight at us in an undersea game of chicken before tilting just slightly downward and passing beneath in formation. On their second pass (me being me…) I decided to try and join their formation, taking a deep breath and diving down, kicking hard with my fins to keep up. Approaching from the side, they saw me coming and remarkably one let me get close enough to gently pet the side of its wing. I can tell you there is nothing smoother feeling than a Manta’s skin. Well out of breath, I dashed for the surface excited to share my story. In total we experienced 5 passes by the Manta group, and when it was time to say goodbye they swam to the surface and waved at us. I kid you not. We all stared awestruck at the experience, and eagerly chatted about it as we munched our snacks on the ride back to the Resort.
The “Leader” of the 5 Mantas. Olympus TG-3 with Dive Housing.
For a taste of traditional Fijian living, the morning visit to the nearby village of Vunikura is a must. We almost skipped the opportunity due to some kava-induced laziness but I’m glad we gathered up the energy to go. I enjoyed it so much I wrote a piece just on that brief but beautiful little trip.
Vunikura Village, FIji. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Just Relax
Our modus operandi is usually to explore the living daylights out of the places we travel to, and inevitably come home somewhat more burned-out than when we left. With this venue we were quite happy to depart from that approach, and just take each day as it came. All I wanted to do was soak in the energy of my surroundings, whether that meant sitting on the beach, or strolling the short jungle path behind the resort to catch a view. I used my stomach to tell the time for me. Hungry? It’s probably time to head up to the pavilion for a bite of lunch. Here I’ll add my one note of caution for would-be visitors to the Fijian Isles: food and drink is heavily taxed, and of course the remoteness of many of the resorts just adds to the cost of getting that food to your plate. Luckily, portion sizes are large, so within a couple of days Victoria and I were comfortable sharing dishes for some of our meals just to ensure we didn’t come home to an over-full credit card. That said if the opportunity to enjoy an entire open-flame cooked snapper for dinner on the beach presents itself, say yes!
I’d be remiss not to make note of the optional daily massage package. You can enjoy a different treatment each day (and we did), with the most memorable being a full-body palm leaf wrap to soak-in the moisturizing oils! I’ll admit I just enjoyed the laugh at looking like a human Zongzi in that case. Of course, you can opt to take as many or few treatments as you like, but given this was the start of our trip we decided to dive into the relaxation head-first.
Victoria enjoying the sunrise. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Palms lean as the sea pokes through, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Parting Thoughts
The Remote Resort is a wonderful place to pause and enjoy an unspoiled corner of our world. I didn’t see a single contrail in the sky the week I was there. Think about that for a moment, when was the last time you could say the same? The staff that are delightful to interact with, the nature is ready to stun the senses and accommodations are carefully designed to augment your enjoyment of it all. The dark nights without light pollution, and gentle waves lapping the shore allow you to really sleep deeply. Catching up on sleep has magic powers as far as your health and energy is concerned (If you don’t believe me, read this.), so I think that in itself really helped me enjoy my time there to the fullest. With all this, the Remote Resort becomes a very difficult place to leave. Have we set the bar too high right at the beginning?
Sunrise. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?