Blog
From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.
I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.
Latest Articles
Portugal - Sintra
The last leg of our trip was here in Lisbon. We had several days to explore the city and the idea was to do so on foot, rambling the narrow and hilly cobbled streets with one hand on the stroller and the other with the camera. No plan of action here, so let’s see what the city decides to show us!
National Palace of Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO160 1/125 f8
Train to a Fairy-tale Land
Read Part V: Portugal - Lisbon →
After a few days wandering Lisbon, and with the end of our trip in sight, we decided on one last change of pace and place. I hadn’t heard of Sintra prior to our planning for this trip, but it sounded like quite a unique place to visit with and array of spectacular palaces and castles all clustered in one small municipality in the Portuguese countryside. We had not spent much time up to this point visiting historical sights, so the appetite was there to dive into a bit of the region’s architecture and history. Besides, the best way to get there is by train, which suited our little guy just fine given he’s perpetually enamoured therewith!
Comboios de Portugal. Lisbon, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/30 f2.8
It was going to be a hot day, so we started out early, opting to grab some pastries for breakfast from any stores we passed along the 1.5 kilometer walk from our apartment to Rossio Train Station where our adventure for the day would truly begin. There are many trains per day between Sintra and Lisbon, and they’re quite inexpensive, so even if you have a rental car in town the rail route should likely be your preferred option. That said, our attempt to get tickets wasn’t without some excitement. It turned out we got to the station just minutes before the next train was leaving, and what followed was a bit of a mad dash around the station trying to find out where exactly to get our tickets. We got a bit of bad advice from one person we asked which sent us to the wrong floor, but eventually we got up to the correct platform level only to find a gigantic line for one of the few windows with operators. There appeared to be automated ticket machines available as well, but these were also lined up. Here’s the pro-tip for travelling parents: If you have young children, it’s customary and accepted to jump to the front of the line to get tickets. Unfortunately we didn’t know this until it was too late, but at least there’s a cafe on the platform to help you kill time waiting for the next train.
Train! Lisbon, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/30 f2.9
Peeking into the [cockpit]?, Lisbon, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO 250 1/30 f16
The train trip starts underground until it’s out of the city core and then pops up and into the dense suburbs of Lisbon. This was our first proper glimpse of how most Lisboan’s live and it’s not an unfamiliar site for those used to travelling Europe. Density is king with many apartment blocks, colorfully accentuated by graffiti, whizzing by our windows. The train makes many stops on the way to Sintra, but the overall trip felt short, perhaps just over 30minutes. Eventually, towers give way to more open spaces and villages tucked into valleys begin to signal that the urban expanse is behind us.
The train to Sintra, Lisbon, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/40 f8
Graffiti from the train, Lisbon, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/250 f8
Sintra Station, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/250 f8
Sintra
Hopping off the train at Sintra station you don’t see much, really. The small station sits adjacent a tree-shaded street with a few cafe’s and restaurants lining it. No palaces in sight yet. Some vendors are trying to entice tourists to rent a scooter or take a tuk-tuk to go see the sights, but us being us, we begin to walk where the signs seem to indicate we should go. A small free map at the tourist office proved helpful and I recommend you grab one to help orientate yourself and learn about the sights you want to see.
The first palace you see, Sintra National Palace, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO400 1/250 f8
The Sintra National Palace with its distinct twin white chimneys is likely the first palace you’ll see, but when you do you’ll realize you’re nowhere near it. Sintra lays at the base of a mountain and winds it’s away along the valley bellow it, so you have to loop around the valley to make your way to the National Palace.
Grand structures of Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO2000 1/250 f8
Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/60 f11
Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/160 f11
While most of the palaces here seem to contain museums, we opted to simply tour the grounds and observe the beautiful exteriors, intricate gardens and stunning viewpoints. This would allow us to take advantage of the beautiful weather we had that day as well, and minimize the chance of the little guy getting too bored and fussy.
Sintra National Palace, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/160 f11
Sintra National Palace, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/160 f11
Fountain at the Sintra National Palace, Sintra, Portugal Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/160 f8
Sintra National Palace, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/160 f11
Little travel buddy exploring the Sintra National Palace, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/160 f11
Next we made our way to the Quinta de Regaleira palace, to see it’s more gothic structures and expansive grounds and gardens. It’s a bit of a walk to get here from the Sintra National Palace, but well worth it! A surprise lay in store for us here (largely because we did no homework on Sintra before visiting), and the lane leading here was shaded by lovely tall trees and large stone walls. There are a couple of shops along the way where you can grab a snack, or restaurants is you prefer to sit. We did the former on the way to this palace, and the latter on the way back.
Tourists wandering Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO1600 1/160 f8
Making our way to Quinta Da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO 400 1/160 f8
Quinta Da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO 320 1/160 f8
Quinta Da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/160 f8
The grounds of this palace are impressive. Winding paths lead you up, down and around a steep hillside, with views across the valley and back at the palace itself. There are ponds, flora of every sort and plenty of hidden secrets too. The cost and effort to have built-out this lavish property must have been immense.
Views from the paths around Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/100 f16
Gardens of Quinta da Regaleira, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/160 f8
One of the biggest draws to this property is the well located at the top of the hill. Here, a bit of the mystery began. You see, we saw people lined up to enter the well at the top, but no exit…so where were they going? Unfortunately only one of us was able to find out in person. They don’t allow kids with strollers into the spiral staircase. Sort of makes sense in retrospect, but in the moment our attempts to negotiate a way for us all to visit this unique feature were frustratingly denied. Especially given we found this out after a good 15minute wait in line to get to the entrance. My wife drew the short straw, so it was I that descended into this seemingly inside-out tower. What was the point of it? How do I get out? Where do I find my family after?
Quinta da Regaleira Well, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/45 f4.5
Quinta da Regaleira Well, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO3200 1/30 f3.2
A cave! More than a cave, lot’s of caves! It seems the cheeky owners of this palace decided to build some catacombs beneath the well, used apparently as a hideaway, underground concert venue, occasional orgy spot and solid hide and seek venue.
Quinta da Regaleira Well, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO5000 1/30 f2.8
Quinta da Regaleira Well, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO800 1/30 f8
Quinta da Regaleira Well, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO100 1/30 f2.8
Eventually reunited at the bottom, we decide to make our way up the mountain that towers over Sintra’s landscape. All along our wanderings so far I’d been noticing parapets of a castle near it’s peak and I was intrigued. The walk up the hill is fairly long, so pack some water and snacks, especially if it’s a hot day. It’s probably worth mentioning here that some of the locations in Sintra require tickets/reservations in advance to visit. We didn’t know that, given the spur of the moment nature of this day trip, and were caught out once or twice having made our way to spot only to find ourselves unable to enter. We had some concerns we may face a similar scenario at the top of this mountain, but decided to chance it anyway. Besides, you can get away with a lot when you need to when you have a baby stroller in front of you.
Imposing entrance of the National Palace of Pena, Sintra Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/125 f8
We were not disappointed. The Palacio National da Pena is simply stunning. You first spot it’s defensive walls after the last of countless switchbacks making your way up the mountain and your eyes are immediately assaulted with color. Disneyland ain’t got nothing on this, the magic kingdom was in Portugal all along, folks. The might and opulence of this place is felt immediately. you could just imagine being some sort of foreign dignitary, sweating after a lengthy trip to the castle only to be faced with a candy-colored impregnable fortress. What sort of a person must rule this place? -you ask yourself as yours eyes wander the parapets for archers.
Palacio National da Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/80 f8
Palacio National da Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/250 f2.8
This quickly became my favorite part of the Sintra excursion. This castle in the sky, painted in wild primary colors, was like something out of a dream and no-doubt the inspiration for so many stories, fairy-tales and films. There are museums and a restaurant within, but we were content to walk around the areas open to the air imagining what it would have been like to reside here some time long ago.
Palacio National da Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/125 f8
Palacio National da Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/125 f8
Palacio National da Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/125 f8
Adeus, Portugal
Literally capping our trip with a castle in the sky felt like a fairy-tale ending to a trip that took us through so many delightful places. From beaches and cafes to cabanas on a lake, winding lanes and the home of monstrous waves, Portugal has a lot to offer a traveller. We only scratched the surface, I’m sure. While we couldn’t hope to cover it all in two weeks, we were happy with the experience we had with this delightfully unique country, it’s friendly people, and delicious food. Our apartment host even helped us track down a taxi with a car seat so that we could catch our early morning flight stress free. Maybe not so tough with a kiddo in tow after all.
Palacio National da Pena, Sintra, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/125 f8
Mallorca - First Taste of Spain
It was a last minute idea. From intention, to booking, to flight in less than two weeks. It’s not often one makes a significant career change, and this one warranted a few weeks abroad to rest and reset. Mallorca was not an obvious destination for us, coming from Vancouver where Hawaii or Mexico might be the more frequented, and frankly closer, destinations.
The Pool at La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
It was a last minute idea. From intention, to booking, to flight in less than two weeks. It’s not often one makes a significant career change, and this one warranted a few weeks abroad to rest and reset. Mallorca was not an obvious destination for us, coming from Vancouver where Hawaii or Mexico might be the more frequented, and frankly closer, destinations. But shoulder season meant there were some amazing deals to be had, and if you’re going to spend the same money, why not try somewhere new? With that in mind and our 6 month old in tow, we created a simple plan; 2 weeks, 4 stays, 4 very different approaches to beautiful Mallorca.
Tempting, but no baby seat. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
La Residencia
This one was my wife’s pick. Her reasoning? -You’ve worked your butt off for years, let’s treat ourselves and start with a real rest. Of course, our prior 6 months with our young son had been exhausting as well, so a touch of luxury was well earned by all. La Residencia sits in the beautiful valley-village of Deia on the western side of Mallorca. It’s about a 45min car ride from Palma airport depending how many cyclists are on the road -more on this in a later post. The hotel is owned by Belmond, a hospitality company dedicated to creating amazing experiences for it’s guests.
The history of the compound dates back to medieval times and has changed hands and purpose many times. It was most recently owned by Sir Richard Branson, before being acquired by Belmond (LVMH). The hotel blends luxury and exceptional service with ancient charm and architecture quite seamlessly as it’s myriad buildings seem to be chiseled right out of the hillside it occupies. A village within a village. Upon arrival, our bags are cheerfully grabbed by porters as the valet hops in to park the car and we are whisked off to the patio where champagne awaited. It took about two minutes of sitting, sipping, and listening to the live piano before I melted into my chair.
The patio at Cafe Miro, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Reception waiting area, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Our patio, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A few glasses of champagne later we made our way up to our suite near the top of the property above the main pool and breakfast area. We were delighted to find a large room with a four post bed, private patio with a mountain view, a bottle of wine and some fruit and chocolate as well as a crib already setup for our son. Inside the crib, a toddler-sized branded canvass backpack for him with a stuffy inside -nice touch. It can be challenging to find accommodations such as these that permit young children, but here our son was welcomed warmly. There’s even a family center with activities for kids although our little guy was too young to take advantage of it this time around.
Part of the main road that bisects Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
That first night we hadn’t made reservations so we decided to wander the town and find a place to eat. All three of us were jet-lagged, and I’m sure the little guy hadn’t the slightest idea what was going on. On the recommendation of the hotel we walked to Restaurante Sebastian in the center of the village. As we carried our little stroller up the three steps into the restaurant my first thought was “uh-oh” -I was the only guy without a sport-coat on, and there wasn’t another stroller in sight between the white linen covered tables. We were about to spin around and leave when the owner warmly greeted us and directed us to an open table. It was here we really realized what a family friendly culture we’d stepped in to in Mallorca. As we ordered our meal, the owner swept our son from his high-chair and began to show him around the restaurant stopping at various guest tables, and off to the kitchen to show the chef. The meal was a delight and the distraction for our son meant we could eat it in peace. Amazing.
This happened to us again on the second night when we ate at El Olivo on La Residencia’s property. In this case the waiter excitedly told us how he hopes to have a son like ours one day before whisking him off to parade around the restaurant. This certainly wouldn’t happen back home, but it was most welcomed!
Looking down on Son Fony from our private yard, La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
La Residencia’s property itself is massive, you could spend an entire morning just wandering the grounds as we did, and you might even stumble upon the resident donkeys!
Couple of locals, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
On the second day we were delighted to be invited to enjoy afternoon cocktails on the lawn by Thomas, general manager of the hotel. His passionate articulation of his vision for the future of the property -retaining it’s old-world charm while updating the rooms with more modern amenities- certainly has us looking forward to a return visit one day.
Terraced hillside of La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The indoor pool at La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Wandering Deia
Deia, and Cala Deia below it, is a gorgeous village nestled in a u-shaped valley with a small mount in the center. It is well known for art and ex-pats, in fact there are hardly any “locals” at all, with workers traveling here from other towns. It is in effect a ‘one-road town’, at least as far as cars are concerned, and like most of the Mallorcan coast, that road is winding with remarkably tight corners in places. I do recommend renting a small car to get here (and indeed most of the places we traveled on this trip), but once in town everything is walking distance. There are a few shops, cafes, and restaurants as you might expect, but it truly is a small village so don’t come expecting a lot more than that. Boutiques and galleries are hidden down many lanes and alleys, so be sure to venture off the main road and get lost a little.
If you make your way down a steep switch-backing road to the west of town you find yourself in Cala Deia, a tiny fishing cove with a rocky beach and locally famous seafood restaurant Patro March. The food was good with an excellent view of the cove. In the summer I imagine Cala Deia is an amazing place for a swim and day in the sun, but in April, it would be tough even in a wetsuit! I tried regardless, but got out pretty quickly.
Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Deia in the hazy morning light, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Thankfully it’s a light stroller! Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Box of Fruit, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
“Boutiques and galleries are hidden down many lanes and alleys, so be sure to venture off the main road and get lost a little.”
The main street through Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
There’s only one route up the west coast, so every town becomes a tourist stop. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
It gets narrower. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
He didn’t seem enthused about giving directions. Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Wandering Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Parting Thoughts
You could cover Deia in half a day, but stay at La Residencia for much longer. Four nights suited us best, and while we were sad to go, we knew we had a lot more to see ahead. From here we’d be heading to Soller, just a winding half hour further up the coast from Deia. We set the bar pretty high (again) at the beginning of our trip, how would our next destination on the island compare?
Spend the day sitting here? Don’t mind we I do. La Residencia, Deia, Mallorca, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Hiroshima - Japan
I was at times perhaps too stingy with my shooting, and other times I felt compelled to snap a photo of some okonomiyaki. In time I’d develop a rhythm (and tendency to overpack) to my shooting that freed me to shoot unencumbered by worry of running out out of film.
Orb in Hiroshima. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Humidity & Hope
Read Previous Part III: Koyasan, Japan →
After our serene visit to Koyasan, our group spent a night in Wakayama taking in the palm trees, ramen and huge public onsen, before boarding another train for our final destination, Hiroshima. It’s a name we’re all familiar with from history class, but what’s it like to visit today? Could a city with such a sad history enjoy a bright future?
Cycle commuter in Hiroshima, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Of course having done my research I knew that I’d find a vibrant city with a bustling economy, arts scene, food scene and everything else you’d expect of a major urban center. What amazed me was that being there, if you didn’t know when you arrived about the city’s terrible demise in the second world war, there’s not much to give away it ever happened.
Unlike the rest of the stops on our Japan trip, Hiroshima was already hot and humid in early spring. We were sweating within minutes of leaving our door in the morning. That, coupled with this being the tail end of our trip, made for a fairly relaxed pace and wandering more centered on “Where do we eat next?” than “What do we see next?”. Hiroshima is a treat for foodies (most of Japan is, really) so whether it was pastries at patisseries or katsu at a corner shop, this was the stop that was going to pack on the most weight for our crew. It’s a large city, but well served by a bus and trolley system that is easy to navigate. We rented an apartment just outside the city core, which was conveniently located on a trolley line that took us right where we’d want to go within minutes.
With the humidity came a thick layer of cloud and since I was committed to ISO400 I found myself having to shoot at fairly open apertures to allow for a quick-enough shutter speed to minimize blur. My film stock running low, I decided to focus more with my eyes and less with my lens but still grabbed the occasional snap as something caught my eye. Although I knew at this stage that film is readily available in Japan, limiting the number of shots I could take to the rolls I brought with me made for an interesting project and challenge. I was at times perhaps too stingy with my shooting, and other times I felt compelled to snap a photo of some okonomiyaki. In time I’d develop a rhythm (and tendency to overpack) to my shooting that freed me to shoot unencumbered by worry of running out out of film.
Outside our window. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
““I was at times perhaps too stingy with my shooting, and other times I felt compelled to snap a photo of some okonomiyaki.””
Hiroshima’s Famous Okonomyaki on the way. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Playing with bokeh, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Trying to keep the camera steady while shooting at relatively low ISO and manually focusing. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The Bomb
I suppose one can’t really visit Hiroshima without speaking about it’s history with “the bomb”, and perhaps it would be rude not to. The recovery of this city from utter devastation at the end of the second world war is remarkable. It gives me hope that even after the darkest of times humanity can still flourish. One of my main objectives in visiting Hiroshima was to tour the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum. Walking through its maze of halls and galleries with detailed dioramas, relics, audio clips and video interviews of survivors, your mind is assaulted by a single thought; why does our species keep doing this? The answers aren’t here, but the opportunity for observation and reflection this atmosphere fosters is more than worth the price of admission. It’s things you’ve learned in books brought closer to life, to reality. Things you are cognizant of but likely haven’t felt (if you are lucky, as I am, to live in a place far from war) until you’ve experienced it in this thoughtfully curated immersion. If you can make it out of the building without shedding tears, you’re made of sterner stuff than I.
The Bomb, one of many dioramas at the museum. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Looking towards the epicenter from the grounds of the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
It Followed Me Home
The visit to Hiroshima went by in a blur. Before we knew it, it was back to Tokyo by high speed rail for a short overnight stay before flying home to Vancouver. At this stage of the trip I’d realized I’d done almost no shopping and thought to grab a few mementos of this visit other than the photos I was hoping would turn out. A quick stop at Lemonsha in Ginza and I found myself a like-new condition Yashica Electro GSN. Ok, I thought it was quick stop, but nearly missed my train as a result of a high degree of indecisiveness. This led to my first opportunity to sprint down a train platform, just like in the movies. The Yashica? A joy to look at, if not a powerhouse of photographic potential. That, along with a new-old-stock Seiko SKX007 that I found in a tiny clock shop in Koyasan, and my printed photobooks, are all tangible reminders that immediately elicit memories of this wonderful country that I will undoubtedly visit again.
It was a couple of years later that I decided to actually write up a story on this trip. Looking through my photographs while doing so, I was amazed by how quickly my memories of the experience sharpened. I guess that’s the beauty of travel photography. Its ability to transport you back in time and across the world to relive moments that otherwise might just be lost in the back-catalog of our minds. Even more special in this instance perhaps, is the memories of taking the shots themselves; composing, adjusting, fretting, forgetting, and as is the case when shooting film, hoping. Hoping the shots turn out, trusting your equipment, your film and your skill adds a bit of uncertainty to the experience that -for me- augments the adventure you’re on.
Yashica Electro GSN from Lemonsha, using a Huawei Smartphone with integrated Leica Summilux-H 27mm f1.8 ASPH
Seiko SKX007, arguably one of Seiko’s most loved pieces, found in a tiny clock repair shop in Koyasan. Shot on a Samsung S20 FE.
Stay tuned for my Japan series follow-up post where I’ll share some lessons learned on this first film-photography-only experience abroad. I learned a lot, and while I’ve shared some tips and thoughts throughout these articles, I look forward to preparing a summary of some of these key learnings for those of you contemplating a similar project.
Continue to the Epilogue: Japan - Travelling with Film Photography →
Japan - Prologue
“Does it work"?” I asked, pulling the metal brick out of a dusty cupboard. “Find a battery for it and find out!” My Dad replied. And like that, sometime in early 2017, my curiosity for film/photography was reborn.
Temples. Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400,
“Does it work"?” I asked, pulling the metal brick out of a dusty cupboard. “Find a battery for it and find out!” My Dad replied. And like that, sometime in early 2017, my curiosity for film/photography was reborn. A personal challenge formed in my mind as I inspected the chunky form of my Dad’s Pentacon Pracktica LTL; could I commit to taking this camera on my upcoming trip to Japan, and shoot the entire experience using film alone, in this day and age?
“The Brick”, Dad’s Praktica LTL. Huawei P10 PLus.
Gear
The Praktica is typical of accessible East German consumer workhorse cameras: it feels solid, weighs a ton and skips frills for simplicity and functionality. In a way it was the perfect camera for my sojourn back into photography. Everything is manual, tactile, visceral, simple. A small lever next to the shutter release activates the TTL meter (easy to forget in a pinch until you’re used to it) and a black needle hovers near a tiny circle on the right within the viewfinder indicating exposure. Shutter speeds as fast as 1/1000th are available and the ASA/DIN dial allows you to select as high as 1600.
I had figured a 50mm lens would do the trick (my desire to bring a bag of lens options came later in my photographic renaissance, though I’ve since toned that back down). I found a clean and clear Meyer-Optik Domiplan 50mm f2.8 and -sold on the sellers description of super-cool bokeh- chose that to screw onto the front of this chunky little camera for the duration of the trip.
The question of what film to bring was not so simple. I knew I wanted color rather than black & white and decent versatility to shoot in various light conditions. Online advice proved a mishmash of mixed opinions (is it ever anything else?), so I visited my two favorite camera stores in Vancouver (Beauphoto and Leo’s) to get the opinions of the folks behind the counter. With their advice, I settled on Kodak Portra 400, and bought a box of 5 rolls, 180 shots to cover my two week trip. I’d heard that film was still quite easy to find for sale in Japan, so didn’t stress that I wasn’t bringing enough and besides, I didn’t intend to blast away as I once did with my digital. With 400 -I figured- I could capture anything in daylight, and with a steady hand take a chance at Japan’s spectacular night scenery as well.
Kodak Portra 400, Huawei P10 Plus
““Could I end up shooting a whole trip only to find irreparably damaged negatives when I got home?””
Doomed from the Start?
With bags packed and the promise of sake and sakura ahead, we headed to YVR airport in Vancouver to fly to Tokyo by way of Shanghai. Film canisters softly clattering together in my backpack, I’m eager to experience Japan and capture it in a way that feels novel (what’s old is new again) and somehow more deliberate compared to the “I’d better snap this” feel of cellphone photography. I figured I’d load the camera in the darkness of the airplane, ready to step out and capture a new world. My friends seemed a little puzzled at my choice, but they’re used to me by now and reflect my optimism back at me with their own excitement at our groups’ first trip abroad together.
“Sir pass the bag through the X-Ray please,” the stern-faced security person gestures towards the Ziploc bag full of film, grasped tightly in my hand as the rest of my carry-on makes it’s way though the machine. The 5 minute interaction that followed involved a fair bit of eye-rolling and threats until a level headed and more senior supervisor came to the rescue and gave the bag a quick hand-check. Sure, lower ISO film should be fine passing through once…but how many scans through a machine can it take before it’s impacted*? I’d be passing by at least 4 scanners on this trip and was hoping to minimize potential damage. Could I end up shooting a whole trip only to find irreparably damaged negatives when I got home? For that matter will this 40 year old piece of hardware stand up to so much sudden use? As I buckled in for the flight, excitement and anticipation overshadowed that brief flood of doubts. Headphones-in, I close my eyes and daydream what’s to come.
Continue to: First Frames, Tokyo - Japan →
China Eastern to Tokyo. Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400.
*Later on I’d read about “burner rolls”, a high ISO film roll that you include in your bag that serves as a valid excuse to avoid passing the whole film-bag through a machine. This has proved an effective tactic!
Get Disconnected - Murtle Lake
Once at the end of the road you’ll find yourself in a small dirt parking area and that’s where the adventure begins. From there, the lake entry-point is accessed via a winding 2.5km forest trail.
Peter & Peter, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Want to see the quintessential lakes and mountains of British Columbia, without the crowds that accompany the easily accessed sites near Vancouver? I may have a spot for you -if you’re willing to put in some effort to get there. Murtle Lake BC is the world-famous lake you've likely never heard of, until now.
White sand beaches, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Planning a trip? Here’s what you need to know before you go:
Murtle Lake — Quick Facts
Location: Wells Gray Provincial Park, British Columbia
Distance from Vancouver: ~600 km (≈7–8 hour drive)
Nearest Town: Blue River, BC
Access: 18 km forest service road + 2.5 km portage trail
Lake Size: ~30 km long
Boating: Canoe / kayak only (no motorized boats)
Campsites: Distributed along shoreline (many with bear caches & outhouses)
Best Time to Visit: June – September
Key Tip: Paddle early—afternoon winds can be intense
Cell Service: None
How to Get to Murtle Lake
“World Famous” you say? Yes indeed, though I’d first heard of it only a couple of weeks before we ventured out. Murtle Lake is the largest canoe/kayak only lake in North America. That means no power-boats, no sea-do’s, not even those little electric powered dinghy’s to help you explore this body of water that stretches for over 30km. This is going to be a paddle powered adventure, once you reach the water that is.
The lake is located in Wells Gray Provincial Park in British Columbia’s interior, nearly 600km from Vancouver, and an 18km off-road drive from the nearest village, Blue River BC. A 4x4 is not required, but good ground clearance and rugged tires will get you to the trail head with less stress. Once at the end of the road you’ll find yourself in a small dirt parking area and that’s where the adventure begins. From there, the lake entry-point is accessed via a winding 2.5km forest trail. This means you are hiking/portaging to the lake with your camping gear, supplies and vessel of choice, unless you’ve arranged to rent a canoe from the nice folks at Blue River Campground, who’s canoes are stored at the small dock at the end of the trail. The above characteristics tend to keep the day-trippers away and when considering the sheer size of the lake, almost guarantees the solitude one hopes for in a wilderness getaway such as this.
Cozy campsite, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160.
Canoe Camping on Murtle Lake
Once you’ve left the dock and the small lagoon at the southern tip of the lake, the rest is up to you. There are campsites all over the shores of Murtle Lake, most equipped with bear-safe storage boxes and even outhouses. If you’re staying for a few days, you should relocate a number of times and experience different sites, shores and islands that can vary wildly from dense thickets to long white sandy beaches. A key piece of advice I’ll share is to start your paddling early in the morning and plan to end by mid-day. Fierce winds can descend upon the waters in the afternoon and easily overpower even the strongest paddlers, sending you wherever they’re blowing (which can be 20km+ from where you want to be, or worse). If you’re caught out later than you expected, hug the shore in case you need to make a hasty landing.
Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
The Sound of Silence
As power-craft aren’t allowed on the lake, there’s nothing but nature to assault your senses. The breeze whistling through trees, a trout jumping, the frogs croaking, all combine to create a nice backing track to whatever you’re up to. Oh, and the mosquitoes buzzing, but they’re not too bad. I tend to have my best sleeps while camping, and this place didn't disappoint in that regard.
Wild Shore, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra XA
Hidden bonus lake! Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Dinner prep, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
White Sandy Beaches
Few lakes in the Pacific North West have white sandy beaches (that aren’t human-made), but Murtle, no doubt due to its glacial-volcanic heritage, has plenty. On a hot summer day you could be forgiven for thinking you’re somewhere much more tropical as you lay on the warm sands soaking up the sun.
Paddle past a beach, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Picnic Spot, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Let’s stop here, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
To Do
I probably don’t need to tell you how to fill your time here, but definitely don’t forget your fishing rod! Even a natural fish-replant such as myself was able to catch some trout, and they were delicious cooked over the open fire. Organic eating with lake-to-table sustainable appeal!
There are also numerous hikes available from various campsites, including one to another hidden lake which didn’t show up on any map I had with me. I delight in experiences like that, and found most fellow paddlers on the lake eager to share their tips & tricks to finding hidden gems in the area.
Lighting the reeds and grasses, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Vicky catches the Sun, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Sunset at Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160
Get Disconnected
A spot such as this is best shared with family and friends, in person and in the moment. One of my favorite aspects of this piece of wilderness was the complete disconnection from the digital. No signal here, folks. You can enjoy the company you brought along with you without distraction, and if you haven’t experienced that in a while, the experience alone is worth the trip.
Undersea Fiji - Viwa
The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond.
A Garden of Coral, Viwa Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
As I described in my last post, the Island of Viwa is an isolated place, situated on the extreme Western edge of the Yasawa group of the Fijian Islands. It’s a long boat ride from anywhere, so I recommend the short 25 minute float-plane/chopper flight from Nadi rather than the ferry-boat transfer option. Crossing the choppy seas in a small vessel can be daunting for some, and eats up most of a day you’d rather spend on the beach or beneath the waves.
So, let’s dive right in, shall we?
Eagle rays patrol the edge of the reef. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond. Because of the shape and location of the gap, it inevitably meant jumping some big waves whilst passing quite close to the rusting wreck of a vessel that didn’t quite get it right. Yikes. Once through the gap the sea is your oyster and a myriad of potential dive sites awaits you.
Clownfish and it’s Anemone, Olympus Tough TG3, Macro setting, Dive Housing
Clownfish guarding eggs, Olympus Tough TG3, Macro setting, Dive Housing
Unlike the Rainbow Reef where my focus was on the smaller denizens of the sea, in the waters surrounding Viwa it was some of the larger creatures and vistas that caught my gaze and lens. That’s not to say there weren’t plenty of the little guys around (as you see above), but there were certainly an abundance of larger fish one simply couldn’t ignore.
The Viwa dive sites we visited (The Zoo, Coral Garden and Fantasea) were all characterized by a fairly deep dive profile and rolling coral mounts that dropped off into the vanishing deep blue of the open ocean. We would slowly dive along the edge of these precipices, splitting our attention between the corals and rocks on one side, and the vast blue nothing on the other - waiting for something to appear.
Bilo leading the way, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
I was fortunate to be the only diver at Viwa that week and so was able to enjoy the solitude of the sea with just Bilo, the dive leader, to guide me to his favorite spots. He always seemed to know where to stop and wait for the magic to happen, and he clearly liked the pelagic fish most of all.
Giant Trevally swims in from the blue, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Schools of Barracuda and Rainbow Runners crossing paths, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Barred Mackerel gets close, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
One of the neat things about stopping to observe the fish is the opportunity to note behavior you might not have noticed before. Bilo and I hovered motionless in one spot for about 10 minutes just watching the world swim by and noting how the fish reacted (or didn’t) to our presence. A glint of sunlight in my peripheral vision attracted me to one interesting and unexpected display. A pair of Dogtooth Tuna were playing around in the open water, one swimming just above the other but tilted so that it was swimming on it’s side, and smacking the tuna bellow it with it’s tail as it went. I literally laughed into my regulator watching this playtime unfold before us, imagining one to be the older sibling mercilessly teasing the other. Not what I was expecting to see from a fish that can reach nearly 2.5m in length and 150kg.
Dogtooth Tuna Playing around. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
At the dive site known as “The Zoo”, the sheer volume of fish on display can not be understated. At any moment any of the above would show up, plus a variety of Turtles, Rays and yes, Sharks, including a mismatched pair of Black Tip and White Tip Reef Sharks that together seemed to be patrolling the zone between reef and the deep.
Black Tip Reef Shark, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Eagle Ray Pair, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Looking for the EAC? Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Lone Barracuda follows me around for a bit. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
White Tip gets real close, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
For snorkelers, the area immediately off the beach is a bit barren, but venturing closer to the barrier reef quickly produces more interesting sites and varieties of fish to see. You probably want to do this with a buddy, as it requires getting a bit far from shore and the outbound current can be strong depending on the tides. I challenge you to find the garden of colorful giant clams, it’s hidden in plain sight straight off shore from the resort’s gear hut. I also highly recommend the guided snorkeling tour, which takes you by boat to a site not otherwise reachable from the resort. There we saw more sharks (including a leopard shark! - no photo I’m afraid) and more varieties of coral and fish.
Resting Grouper, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
You could probably spend your entire Viwa dive trip at “The Zoo” and not get bored (we went twice), but there’s plenty to see at all the sites and plenty of sites I didn’t yet see! I’m often curious how dive operators in these places discover and plot-out the dive sites they’ll take visitors to. Is it by trial and error, general local knowledge, or perhaps leveraging past research? If you have some ideas I’d love to hear from you in the comments section down bellow.
School of Trevally, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Regardless which site you dive, seeing Viwa from beneath the waves is a must. You can plunge right into the wild and be back at the resort in time for lunch. It's hidden treasure trove of natural beauty forming the perfect compliment to your relaxing beach-time topside.
Bilo leads back out of the cave, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Little Viwa
The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long…
Viwa Island Resort, Viwa Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
Read Part IV: Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef →
Viwa is the westernmost of Fiji’s 330 islands. Sitting 23 kilometers from it’s nearest neighbor and surrounded by it’s own barrier reef, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re a long way from nowhere out here. Our original plan was to take a float plane over from Nadi, thus saving the half day boat trip over seas that can occasionally be a bit rough. Unfortunately, we received notice a few days before the trip that the plane was out of commission; luckily the airline had an alternative for us…
Flying over Waya on the way to Viwa, Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor lens, Kodak Ektar 100
With the float-plane out of commission and the airline committed to getting us to our destination, they offered us a ride over in their little helicopter. Talk about making a grand entrance to the resort! This was a first for me, and I loved the experience. On the way to Viwa you have to fly over the Mamanuca Island chain, famous for it’s picture-perfect tiny islands and the exclusive resorts tucked inside them. Our pilot was something of a hot-shot who loved getting low to the islands, and up close to the mountain tops and cliffs we passed along the way. From the water you wouldn’t see much more than the island shores, so this bonus sight-seeing again validated our decision to fly. In a short 25 minutes we were over Viwa and landing on the soft grass helipad behind the resort with smiles and waves from the staff greeting us to our home for the next week.
Tivua Island, Fiji, NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Approach to Viwa, Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
In stark contrast to the mountainous landscapes of eastern Vanua Levu, Viwa is flat as a pancake, rising just a few meters above sea level and nestled within an encircling barrier reef. Our home for this week would be the Viwa Island Resort, located on the eastern shore of the island. There are three villages on the island, which are home to most of the staff here. The resort itself is simple, with about a dozen small private villas just a few meters up from the beach, each with it’s own thatched umbrellas and sun-beds out front on the sand. The main pavilion serves as restaurant, bar and activity center. We quickly settled into a rhythm that was focused on relaxation, soaking up some sun, and (in my case) snorkeling and diving. Compared to The Remote Resort, I’d say the feel here was a bit more spartan and laissez-faire, with most of your time spent on the beach with a good book or drink (or both) in hand. There are a few guided activities, and aside from snorkeling I’d say fishing from a little boat by hand-reel (like the locals do) was one of my favorites. Turns out i’m no better at that than I am with a fishing rod in hand.
Divers take note: While the resort offers scuba diving, the dive leader is not a full time resident of the resort. Call or email in advance to ensure they’ve scheduled him to be there for your visit, thus avoiding disappointment! And yes it’s worth diving here, as you’ll see in this post!
Viwa Island Resort Beach from Cabin 7, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Viwa Island Resort Beach Walk, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
A lovely place to read, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The reef here is not quite as healthy as those we experienced off Vanua Levu, but the snorkeling is still a treat, especially with the many turtles, parrot fish and trigger fish that call the waters right off the resort home. We even spotted a blacktip reef shark and a sleeping leopard shark while enjoying the guided snorkeling in the deeper waters further south on the island. The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long (and did, when I wanted to get another drink or snack!) and just enjoy the feeling of it beneath my toes.
The food for the resort is harvested right on site for the most part, either from the sea or the extensive gardens tucked behind the villa area. I highly recommend asking for a quick tour of the facility as it’s really well thought-out, right down to the solar power cells that provide the power and heat for hot water. At a site like this, sustainability is survivability -both economically and environmentally- when considering the delicate ecosystems in play and the distances from alternative suppliers.
Visiting the vegetable growing fields behind the resort. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Viwa Veggies, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Viwa was a lovely spot for a break. Perhaps not as adventurous in feel as I would normally seek-out (though the diving took care of that) but nonetheless a great place to just chill and take in the beauty of the sea and the warmth of the sand. As with many such places, the opportunity to make friends is there at meal time and happy hour, but the setup is really ideally suited for couples; and allows a sufficient feel of seclusion for you to enjoy each-others company without having to step through walls of tourists to find a spot to relax.
When it came time to leave Viwa, we received word that our float plane was still broken, and now so-to was the helicopter (yikes?). The boat trip back reaffirmed what a good idea it was to try to fly in and out of this little island paradise. A quick evening storm the night before and the ensuing winds whipped up waves that made the trip feel more like an obstacle course than anything else. That said, running the gauntlet of waves at the lone narrow break in the barrier reef is experience enough to get most thrill-seekers grinning ear to ear, so if you dig that then give it a go! You’ll have to anyway, if you’re going to reach the dives sites beyond.
Viwa and the Sea, Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
Planning my dive with Bilo, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
A Glimpse of Village Life
While the villages’ appearance was spartan by Western standards, it’s integration with its environment and the sheer abundance therein is nothing sort of astounding. Everything the Vunikurans need grows all over the village grounds, on the mountain slope behind, or in the sea.
There’s no place like home, Vunikura village Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Read Part I: Let’s Get Remote →
We seized the opportunity to visit the traditional Fijian village of Vunikura as a morning excursion from The Remote Resort. Located on the same eastern peninsula of Vanua Levu as the resort itself, it’s a swift 20 minute boat ride to the village shore. As we arrived, the residents greeted us with song and dance -a ritual you’ll soon grow accustomed to in this country- and then went back to their daily lives while our host, Paul, introduced himself. Paul had returned to his village following his formal education to help his people find ways to reconnect with traditions, while boosting their local economy to enable a renaissance of the village infrastructure. Our tour also came with a little tag-a-long, in the form of 5 year-old Michael, a precocious child who clearly got a kick out of meeting and “guiding” visitors such as ourselves around his home turf.
Paul & Michael, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
While the villages’ appearance was spartan by Western standards, it’s integration with its environment and the sheer abundance therein is nothing sort of astounding. Everything the Vunikurans need grows all over the village grounds, on the mountain slope behind, or in the sea. From breadfruit to bananas, I hardly think we passed a plant that wasn’t used for food, building material, textiles, medicines, or revenue (and in some cases several of these simultaneously). Nobody “owns” the trees or bushes, regardless of proximity to home, the abundance is managed, harvested and processed communally. Chief among these crops is the Fijian’s beloved Kava.
Kava root, chopped, sorted and drying in the sun. NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Kava consumption by local Fijians follows the tradition laid down by countless generations past. Basically, where you and I might sit down over a beer (or 3) at the end of a long day, Fijian’s prefer the relaxing and euphoric properties of powdered Kava root. It’s served by a host from a large bowl wherein it’s steeped in ambient-temperature water. The taste and texture is close to a thin silty soup, but the effect is certainly enjoyable and people always seemed ready to share some with us. Almost every town and village grows it’s own, and in the case of Vunikura as with many others, the crops are tended and processed communally. The revenues are not insignificant, with 1kg of Kava fetching $10 when sold to local wholesalers, who go on to sell it both domestically (for it’s typical ceremonial and social uses) and abroad to hungry Pharmaceutical companies seeking to capitalize on it’s effects for anti-anxiety remedies. It’s the roots of older Kava plants that house the magic. The older the root, the more potent it’s effects. If your tongue and lips are tingling, you’ve got the good stuff. Give it a try when you visit here.
Collecting water from the cistern, NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
“Fijian families can grow quite large” notes Paul with a wink as some kids run by us, “there’s no birth control used here”. All members of the family contribute and live together in houses that have few if any separate rooms within. Instead, houses are sectioned thematically with guests and visiting relatives sticking to the front of the home, while space is dedicated to close family as you move towards the back. Homes stay in the family for generations and many built from local palm logs, leaves and other fibers can stand for 80 years or more. Paul hopes to return his people to the use of traditional building methods and materials, and away from the cheap and easy corrugated metal that adorns many of the village buildings.
A Vunikura home, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The village children, on a break from school, strategically played nearby wherever we wandered. It was refreshing, no screens in-hand, sticks for horses (or swords depending on the needs of the moment), and a lot of laughter. Sure there were some Batman pants and Lightning Mcqueen t-shirts in the mix, but you got the sense that these kids appreciated the playground that nature has given them and the freedom their parents allow. Kids are schooled in the village until they grow to middle-school age, at which point they enter a boarding school system typically far from home. Paul reassured us that the system worked quite well, providing plenty of opportunity for kids to learn about the histories of the many Fijian provinces as well as the world beyond their shores. As with anywhere, some come back home, while others carry on to post-secondary institutions and perhaps move to the larger cities to follow their career aspirations. Still, you quickly came to learn that the Fijian family unit is very strong with deep rooted traditions and sense of belonging. Many of the people we met and chatted with on our Fiji travels frequently visited home on their weeks off, helping their parents and siblings with the family farms and businesses.
Michael pushing his car along. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Checking us out, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Hanging out while mum’s work. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Paul’s aspiration is to put Vunikura on the map, both literally and figuratively. He’s begun working with his community to apply ancestral knowledge and techniques in the use of locally grown materials to restore their village to a more harmonious aesthetic with it’s surroundings. He joins them in the songs and dances that are their traditional methods for recording and retelling history, including the lovely concert they put on for us at the end of our visit. I loved the fact that they made it interactive, getting us to dance along as they explained the meaning of each song.
What’s next? Paul hopes to construct a purpose built cottage in the village for visitors such as ourselves to stay in. In fact, he’s hoping to list it on airbnb when it’s done, and what an experience that would be! A chance to truly immerse in the village life, rather than catch just a fleeting glimpse.
‘till next time, Vunikura Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Let's Get Remote
They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis.
The Pier at The Remote Resort. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100,
The decision to visit Fiji was made quickly. Unusual for us, where months of analysis paralysis typically precedes any trip abroad. It had been a typically soggy Vancouver winter and spring, and we wanted to visit someplace a little off the beaten path (for us Canadians at least) with warm waters, palm trees and few expectations beyond that. We booked our flights in April for September, and promptly forgot to do anything else until the warm sunshine of July reminded us that we had a trip to plan out. While the Fijian islands are rife with beautiful mega-resorts our temperament has been to seek the quieter spots in the places we visit. Fiji did not disappoint with our options in this regard.
The Pier from above. DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
The Remote Resort
They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis. It took some effort to get here, a small plane ride from Nadi to Taveuni and then a 45min boat trip to the resort, but this just added to the sense that you were truly getting away from everything. There are 8 villas to choose from, all with spectacular ocean views, and a main pavilion that serves as bar, restaurant and meeting place. Other than that your backstop is a lush tropical jungle and your front yard is the crystal clear South Pacific -not bad.
Our Villa at Remote Resort. NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Coffee and breakfast at the main pavilion. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
We swapped to an unbooked villa at the end of our trip so we could stay a bit longer. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
The staff make you feel welcome right away, with a greeting song as your boat approaches the resorts’ lone pier. They’ve already taken the time to memorize your names, and use them throughout your stay. This quickly makes you feel like part of the family, and encourages you to try the same! You quickly learn that the Fijian’s are an extremely musical people, everyone sings and it seems no-one is bashful! From the pier our host, Katoni, takes us to our welcoming kava ceremony. We knew nothing about kava before that morning, but came to quickly enjoy the relaxing effect it has on the body and mind. And hey, we were here to relax, right? Well yes and no, see I’m a diver and one that’s well aware that just a few kilometers off-shore rests The Rainbow Reef, purportedly first documented by Jacques Cousteau himself, and considered one of the worlds great dive sites. While Remote lacks a dive shop of it’s own, they’re well set-up to connect you with one of the dive co.’s on Taveuni, and even provide a shuttle boat ride to meet them at the reef. Even if you aren’t comfortable with tanks on your back, the snorkeling right off the beach at Remote is second to none and ensures you don’t miss out on Fiji’s amazing undersea treasures. (More on the diving to follow in a subsequent blog post!)
The first day at Remote goes by in a blur and the deep dark of the true night sky quickly lulls us to sleep. In fact, we slept an average of 10 hours per night during our week-long stay here. A combination of the lack of light pollution and the soothing soft crash of waves against the shore forming the perfect sleep aid -assisted by a few sips of kava, of course.
Beachside torches being lit at dusk. Nikon FE, 135mm Nikkor-Q Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Excursions and Activities
If you wanted to spend your entire visit somewhere between your villa, the beach and the main pavilion for food and drinks you’d easily have a wonderful time. But if you’re the restless type like us, there’s plenty to do outside the confines of the resort, and the staff are happy to accommodate. The “Hidden Beach Castaway Day” is a must for couples, a way to get even more remote than the resort itself. Dropped off with a picnic lunch and drinks, the rest is up to your imagination. Honeymooners take note.
The Hidden Beach at dawn. DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
The Hidden Beach, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, the Manta Snorkeling experience might be right up your alley. Easily one of my favorite sights under the sea, I jump at any chance to see them up close. The site is all the way up near Rabi Island, so it’s a decent boat ride but the scenery along the way is lovely as you’d expect. Gather up your courage before jumping in because the water is deep and in our case quite wavy. My wife Victoria -who is a fan of neither of those scenarios, nor large sea creatures- drew inspiration from the 76 year old Venetian couple who were the first to jump in, to then leap in after us and join the search for these majestic creatures. The Mantas didn’t disappoint. With 5 meter wing-spans and the grace of ballerinas, they swam straight at us in an undersea game of chicken before tilting just slightly downward and passing beneath in formation. On their second pass (me being me…) I decided to try and join their formation, taking a deep breath and diving down, kicking hard with my fins to keep up. Approaching from the side, they saw me coming and remarkably one let me get close enough to gently pet the side of its wing. I can tell you there is nothing smoother feeling than a Manta’s skin. Well out of breath, I dashed for the surface excited to share my story. In total we experienced 5 passes by the Manta group, and when it was time to say goodbye they swam to the surface and waved at us. I kid you not. We all stared awestruck at the experience, and eagerly chatted about it as we munched our snacks on the ride back to the Resort.
The “Leader” of the 5 Mantas. Olympus TG-3 with Dive Housing.
For a taste of traditional Fijian living, the morning visit to the nearby village of Vunikura is a must. We almost skipped the opportunity due to some kava-induced laziness but I’m glad we gathered up the energy to go. I enjoyed it so much I wrote a piece just on that brief but beautiful little trip.
Vunikura Village, FIji. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Just Relax
Our modus operandi is usually to explore the living daylights out of the places we travel to, and inevitably come home somewhat more burned-out than when we left. With this venue we were quite happy to depart from that approach, and just take each day as it came. All I wanted to do was soak in the energy of my surroundings, whether that meant sitting on the beach, or strolling the short jungle path behind the resort to catch a view. I used my stomach to tell the time for me. Hungry? It’s probably time to head up to the pavilion for a bite of lunch. Here I’ll add my one note of caution for would-be visitors to the Fijian Isles: food and drink is heavily taxed, and of course the remoteness of many of the resorts just adds to the cost of getting that food to your plate. Luckily, portion sizes are large, so within a couple of days Victoria and I were comfortable sharing dishes for some of our meals just to ensure we didn’t come home to an over-full credit card. That said if the opportunity to enjoy an entire open-flame cooked snapper for dinner on the beach presents itself, say yes!
I’d be remiss not to make note of the optional daily massage package. You can enjoy a different treatment each day (and we did), with the most memorable being a full-body palm leaf wrap to soak-in the moisturizing oils! I’ll admit I just enjoyed the laugh at looking like a human Zongzi in that case. Of course, you can opt to take as many or few treatments as you like, but given this was the start of our trip we decided to dive into the relaxation head-first.
Victoria enjoying the sunrise. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Palms lean as the sea pokes through, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Parting Thoughts
The Remote Resort is a wonderful place to pause and enjoy an unspoiled corner of our world. I didn’t see a single contrail in the sky the week I was there. Think about that for a moment, when was the last time you could say the same? The staff that are delightful to interact with, the nature is ready to stun the senses and accommodations are carefully designed to augment your enjoyment of it all. The dark nights without light pollution, and gentle waves lapping the shore allow you to really sleep deeply. Catching up on sleep has magic powers as far as your health and energy is concerned (If you don’t believe me, read this.), so I think that in itself really helped me enjoy my time there to the fullest. With all this, the Remote Resort becomes a very difficult place to leave. Have we set the bar too high right at the beginning?
Sunrise. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?