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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.

I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.

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Get Disconnected - Murtle Lake

Once at the end of the road you’ll find yourself in a small dirt parking area and that’s where the adventure begins. From there, the lake entry-point is accessed via a winding 2.5km forest trail.

Peter & Peter, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Want to see the quintessential lakes and mountains of British Columbia, without the crowds that accompany the easily accessed sites near Vancouver? I may have a spot for you -if you’re willing to put in some effort to get there. Murtle Lake BC is the world-famous lake you've likely never heard of, until now.

White sand beaches, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Planning a trip? Here’s what you need to know before you go:


Murtle Lake — Quick Facts

  • Location: Wells Gray Provincial Park, British Columbia

  • Distance from Vancouver: ~600 km (≈7–8 hour drive)

  • Nearest Town: Blue River, BC

  • Access: 18 km forest service road + 2.5 km portage trail

  • Lake Size: ~30 km long

  • Boating: Canoe / kayak only (no motorized boats)

  • Campsites: Distributed along shoreline (many with bear caches & outhouses)

  • Best Time to Visit: June – September

  • Key Tip: Paddle early—afternoon winds can be intense

  • Cell Service: None


How to Get to Murtle Lake

“World Famous” you say? Yes indeed, though I’d first heard of it only a couple of weeks before we ventured out. Murtle Lake is the largest canoe/kayak only lake in North America. That means no power-boats, no sea-do’s, not even those little electric powered dinghy’s to help you explore this body of water that stretches for over 30km. This is going to be a paddle powered adventure, once you reach the water that is.

The lake is located in Wells Gray Provincial Park in British Columbia’s interior, nearly 600km from Vancouver, and an 18km off-road drive from the nearest village, Blue River BC. A 4x4 is not required, but good ground clearance and rugged tires will get you to the trail head with less stress. Once at the end of the road you’ll find yourself in a small dirt parking area and that’s where the adventure begins. From there, the lake entry-point is accessed via a winding 2.5km forest trail. This means you are hiking/portaging to the lake with your camping gear, supplies and vessel of choice, unless you’ve arranged to rent a canoe from the nice folks at Blue River Campground, who’s canoes are stored at the small dock at the end of the trail. The above characteristics tend to keep the day-trippers away and when considering the sheer size of the lake, almost guarantees the solitude one hopes for in a wilderness getaway such as this.

Cozy campsite, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160.

Canoe Camping on Murtle Lake

Once you’ve left the dock and the small lagoon at the southern tip of the lake, the rest is up to you. There are campsites all over the shores of Murtle Lake, most equipped with bear-safe storage boxes and even outhouses. If you’re staying for a few days, you should relocate a number of times and experience different sites, shores and islands that can vary wildly from dense thickets to long white sandy beaches. A key piece of advice I’ll share is to start your paddling early in the morning and plan to end by mid-day. Fierce winds can descend upon the waters in the afternoon and easily overpower even the strongest paddlers, sending you wherever they’re blowing (which can be 20km+ from where you want to be, or worse). If you’re caught out later than you expected, hug the shore in case you need to make a hasty landing.

Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

The Sound of Silence

As power-craft aren’t allowed on the lake, there’s nothing but nature to assault your senses. The breeze whistling through trees, a trout jumping, the frogs croaking, all combine to create a nice backing track to whatever you’re up to. Oh, and the mosquitoes buzzing, but they’re not too bad. I tend to have my best sleeps while camping, and this place didn't disappoint in that regard.

Wild Shore, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra XA

Hidden bonus lake! Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Dinner prep, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

White Sandy Beaches

Few lakes in the Pacific North West have white sandy beaches (that aren’t human-made), but Murtle, no doubt due to its glacial-volcanic heritage, has plenty. On a hot summer day you could be forgiven for thinking you’re somewhere much more tropical as you lay on the warm sands soaking up the sun.

Paddle past a beach, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Picnic Spot, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Let’s stop here, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

To Do

I probably don’t need to tell you how to fill your time here, but definitely don’t forget your fishing rod! Even a natural fish-replant such as myself was able to catch some trout, and they were delicious cooked over the open fire. Organic eating with lake-to-table sustainable appeal!

There are also numerous hikes available from various campsites, including one to another hidden lake which didn’t show up on any map I had with me. I delight in experiences like that, and found most fellow paddlers on the lake eager to share their tips & tricks to finding hidden gems in the area.

Lighting the reeds and grasses, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Vicky catches the Sun, Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Sunset at Murtle Lake BC, Olympus XA, Portra 160

Get Disconnected

A spot such as this is best shared with family and friends, in person and in the moment. One of my favorite aspects of this piece of wilderness was the complete disconnection from the digital. No signal here, folks. You can enjoy the company you brought along with you without distraction, and if you haven’t experienced that in a while, the experience alone is worth the trip.

Continue for a glimpse of other secluded parts of BC →

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Moody Symphony - Tofino

It’s not often you hear someone say, “I hope there’s a storm”, when planning a weekend to the coast, but then Tofino, British Columbia isn’t your typical beach destination.

Victoria watches the waves, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

It’s not often you hear someone say, “I hope there’s a storm”, when planning a weekend to the coast, but then Tofino, British Columbia isn’t your typical beach destination. Tucked into the edge of a temperate rain-forest on the far Western shore of Vancouver Island, its sprawling beaches meet tall evergreens as surfers delight in waves that approach unfettered from the Pacific Ocean. Sure, it’s lovely in the sunshine, but the Pacific Northwest is at it’s best when mother nature throws some energy at it, stirring up the sky and sea into a moody symphony. To capture that mood, I chose Rollei Superpan 200 (perhaps my favorite black & white film) and my trusty Nikon FE. Can you hear the wind and the waves?

Florencia Bay, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Florencia Bay Driftwood, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Tonquin Beach, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Victoria on Tonquin Beach, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Exhausted Surfer on Chesterman Beach, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Victoria fixed on the sea, Chesterman Beach, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Chesterman Beach Surfer, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Tonquin Tree, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

Surfers on the Way Out, Chesterman Beach, Nikon FE, Nikkor 20mm lens, Rollei Superpan 200, Circular Polarizing Filter

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