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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.
I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.
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Portugal - Comporta
It's a bit of a tricky beach. And what I mean by that is, on the first day one could wade out through the surf quite some distance before it got above thigh height. The waves were of a decent size and surf-board rentals and lessons are available here which certainly suits the character and conditions of the waters. On the second day, I tried the same wade into the ocean and got a bit of a surprise…
Family on the Praia do Carvalhal near Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh Griii
Back on the Road
Read Part II: Portugal - Cabanas do Lago →
With some helpful guidance from our hosts at the Cabanas do Lago, we depart in the morning and make our way back to the coastal road heading north. It’s a decent distance to Comporta (160km), so we planned to stop at a few scenic spots along the way for photos, food and some sight seeing. Once again the road was largely empty, and generally contoured in such a way to allow for a spirited pace. Coming back to this part of the world with a motorcycle or a sports car starts to enter my mind as a must-do some day.
First stop was for lunch at a seaside restaurant overlooking a rocky cove. We got a table immediately, but this proved to be a challenging meal as our little guy wasn’t into sitting still for too long. We took turns eating our seafood whilst the other chased him as he dashed through and out the restaurant and back, stopping at tables to see what folks were eating and have a chat. I remember the chasing more than the food, sadly, but at least it tired him out a bit for a nap in the car on the next stretch of the drive.
Beaches near Vila Nova do Milfontes, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Vila Nova de Milfontes
This town was the next recommended stop on our route, another seaside town, known for beaches, festivals and gelato. The unique feature here is a beach formed as part of an estuary at the mouth of the Mira river as it enters the Atlantic. With our restaurant runner asleep in the back, and a long road yet ahead we chose to stop briefly for some photos and a bit of excellent gelato from Mabi (the pistachio was phenomenal) but not linger too much before hitting the road again.
Beaches near Vila Nova de Milfontes, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Vila Nova do Milfontes, Portugal, Ricoh Griii
Surfer near Vila Nova do Milfontes, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
As the day progressed we opted to shortcut our route a bit, hopping onto a main highway to cover some ground more quickly. Here again the road was relatively quiet and drivers quick and attentive – it felt more like Germany than I was expecting in this way, but given we were in the shoulder season perhaps there were fewer tourists on the road. Pulling off for our exit we found ourselves on a long, straight, tree-lined B-road that seemed to go on forever before finally arriving at our destination.
Comporta
Our stay was located in a small village in the vicinity of Comporta, though we find people generally refer to this entire area as Comporta. Adding to my list of Iberian Peninsula Google Map fails, we very nearly found ourselves driving through a farmers field, before figuring out that the address for our accommodation was somehow misaligned with Google’s reality, and by a factor of about 6km at that.
The B-Hostel was built with a clear vision of thoughtful design and detail, plenty of privacy as far as the rooms are concerned, and comfortable common areas that encourage interaction with fellow guests. Breakfast is included here and served up to your liking by friendly and helpful staff. The pool is a small pseudo-infinity setup, but given the main attraction is the beaches, it’s not likely to get a ton of use anyway. There’s a bistro next door and another restaurant in the vicinity, but for the most part you need to head further afield here to find food options.
Courtyard by the B Hostel in Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Little guy playing in the B Hostel in Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Courtyard by the B Hostel in Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Once a sleepy fishing a farming-focused collection of villages, this is now one of the hot, up-and-coming areas of the Portuguese coast. Rumors that Brad Pitt and Madonna, among others, have invested in properties here no-doubt fuel the attraction to visit and the fencing and dust of new resorts under construction were a common sight. The beach is breathtaking though, supporting the draw of tourists to the area. On approach you first cross an area of dunes and shrubs and once crested the full expanse of the Atlantic lays before you, with a fine sandy beach sloping steadily towards it. At Praia do Carvalhal your entry to the beach is also gated by a pair of seafood restaurants and a small kiosk serving up drinks for beachgoers.
It's a bit of a tricky beach. And what I mean by that is, on the first day one could wade out through the surf quite some distance before it got above thigh height. The waves were of a decent size and surf-board rentals and lessons are available here which certainly suits the character and conditions of the waters. On the second day, I tried the same wade into the ocean and got a bit of a surprise. Overnight the changing tides must have carved a deep trench just beyond where the ocean meets the beach, and I sank immediately to my shoulders before getting a tumble by an incoming wave. Oops. No kiddo going in here today. The sun was warm though, and we were happy to spend the day sitting and relaxing in the warmth whilst digging in the sand and finding shells. That said, I’d love to have a go at the waves here, and this could be a solid destination for a trip with some surfing buddies one day.
Praia do Carvalhal, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
The sunset looked set to be a stunner, so we decided to have dinner at Restaurante Sal, one of the two restaurants on the beach. This clearly being a bit posher of a spot than most we’ve visited so far, we decided to zombie the little guy with some screen time so that we could enjoy the meal together without any wild chases. The cuttlefish on ink-colored rice was delightful and a surprisingly large portion. Once the sun dipped bellow the waves though the temperature dropped rapidly, so we didn’t linger too long, and it was bedtime anyway.
Praia do Carvalhal, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
The village of Comporta itself was not far up the road from our accommodation, and we opted to visit it on one of our cloudier days here, with an option to pop over to another beach if it warmed up. Comporta appears to be the older/original town in the area, and while quaint with a smattering of shops and restaurants, there really isn’t much going on. The nearby beach is a mirror image of Praia Carvalhal though, and likely the draw here as well. We parked the car at the entrance to town, walked a lap or so popping into a few shops before stopping for lunch. The weather improved just as we finished our meal, and we decided to head back to Carvalhal to enjoy the afternoon sun on the sand and one more sunset here.
Be Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Woman crosses the road in Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Defender in Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
The Comporta area will evolve rapidly as investment and development increase, chasing/fueling the rising popularity of this as a vacation destination of it’s own. I enjoyed it in this quiet and peaceful state, but think a thoughtful approach to investment in accommodation, restaurants and activities can make this a world-class destination. It’s reasonable proximity to Lisbon (just 120km) makes it that much more attractive. Speaking of, Lisbon was the next and final stay for this trip, but not without a bit of a detour to see the home of the largest waves in the world. To be continued!
On the Beach, Comporta, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?