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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.
I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.
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The Road to Hana — Beyond the Turn (Part II)
The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?
Young Surfer at Koki Beach Park, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Long Way ‘Round - Or, Why We Can’t Keep Still
You could spend a week in West Maui and never feel the need to leave. We tried—but the pull to explore won out. The Road to Hana is demanding enough on its own, but beyond it lies a stretch most visitors are warned against: rough roads, uncertain conditions, and a simple question—is it worth continuing at all?
We’d done the loop once before—and, perhaps foolishly, decided to do it again.
Aston Papakea, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron ISO500
Paia
We left before sunrise. This is not because your author is a morning person, furthest-from in fact, but experience taught us that the road to Hana, given its tight, narrow and winding nature, can become quite the slow grind once the tourists and transport trucks start to fill it. That and there’s a lot to see and a lot of ground to cover to see it all. With empty stomachs and the dawn commencing just ahead of us, we drove east planning on a reasonably quick first stop for breakfast and provisions in the small town of Paia 34 miles away.
The Boba Bar, Paia, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Paia, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Paia, Maui, Hawaii, Lecia M10R, 35mm Sumicron
Paia proved a quaint little town, and while we didn’t stay long, it’s a good launching off point to the Hana Highway with a gas station and a multitude of coffee shops and restaurant options. We caffeinated at The Boba Bar and stocked up at Mana Foods which is a bit of an eclectic organic food market that includes a Hot & Ready counter of warm food options. Happily recommend both, but there’s certainly a bit more to explore if you have an extra 30min or so. We on the other hand were eager to get going, but not without stopping at Ho’okipa Beach Park which is just a bit further down the road from the town for some lovely views to get us in the mood for the drive ahead. At Ho’okipa you’ll almost certainly see some turtles on the beach, and likely a few chickens and roosters as well, but the rocks suggest to me it’s not an ideal spot for a swim.
Ho’okipa Beach Park, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
The Real Road Begins
If you are not a confident driver, this route is not for you. Once well past the quaint confines of Paia, the road begins to narrow as grassy rolling hills give way to thick jungle that occasionally encroaches onto the road, squeezing it narrower than you’re ready to imagine. As someone who competed in motorsports for nearly a quarter century, some sections of the route even have me exclaiming “Really?!” as I round a bend only to find the entire road narrowing to 1.5 lanes wide with a transport truck barreling towards me. Heading out towards Hana, there is typically a sheer drop on your left-hand side and a wall-like mountainside covered in trees and ferns on your right. There’s no room to squeeze over in many places, and sections appropriate for passing are very few and far between. This is not to say this isn’t enjoyable for us motoring masochists, but be prepared for a mentally fatiguing workout.
Of course, with the added stimulus of my in-laws and a 2.5 year old in the car, the variables impacting one’s focus only intensify. The familiar wail of “I have to peeeeeeeee” seems all the more shrill when you know there’s nowhere to stop, literally. Luckily there are sections where the road wides slightly, likely to accommodate larger trucks passing eachother in opposite directions, and these are typically just before some of the narrow bridges that span waterfalls and chasms. I don’t want to dissuade you from trying it (and there are alternatives including guided tour rides by experienced locals), but when you get to the “end” you will find yourself asking the fundamental question: “Do I want to do that all over again in the opposite direction?”. We’ll come back to the answer of that question a little later in the story. I’m getting ahead of myself though, because there are some stunningly beautiful sights to stop at along the way and besides views the chance to take a little mental break from the taxing road is more than welcome.
Waialohe Park, KeʻAnae Peninsula, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Ke’Anae
After about 20 miles of endless corners you’ll approach your first opportunities to stop and take a breath. First, a quick turn-off to the right takes you up a small hill to Savor Maui, a little food truck with coffee and snacks. Unfortunately the stove wasn’t working when we got there, so it was cold food only, but our bellies were still happy from breakfast so a smoothie and some caffeine and we carried on. Shortly afterward you can again leave the main road to descend to the Ke’Anae lookout. This small peninsula just into the sea with black rocky shores constantly smashed by the waves. It’s quite the juxtaposition of green to black to bright blue (not that you can see that here).
I suggest you start with a quick stop at Waialohe park for some photos, which is just on your left as you make your way onto the peninsula, then walk up to Aunty Sandy’s Banana Bread because the banana bread is tasty and it’s something of an institution here. Hop back in the car and drive a bit further to the Ke’Anae lookout for more waves crashing on jagged shores. Ke’Anae makes for a short but welcome detour, and you’ll be felling fresh to tackle the road once again which you access the same way you came.
Ke’Anae Lookout, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Sumicron
Nahiku Market
Another viable spot for a lunch stop, we enjoyed the coconut shrimp and chips here and there’s options for coffee, desserts and souvenirs as well. This small market sits just to the side of the road and is easy to spot as you’re driving.
A quick snack break at Nahiku Marketplace along the Road to Hana, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Hana Lava Tubes
Just before reaching Waiʻānapanapa State Park adventurous travellers can choose to take a detour and visit the Hana Lava Tubes. For a small fee visitors receive a guide map and flashlight to facilitate exploring the cave system. It’s a bit surreal walking through a lush tropical environment among towering palms only to come upon a staircase into a barren rocky hole in the ground. If you’re not claustrophobic I’d suggest this is an interesting diversion to take on this journey that is otherwise dominated by jungles and seascapes. The immediate change in climate (from warm, bright and humid to dark and cool) provides an otherworldly reminder of the volcanic origin and nature of Maui that feels distinct from the towering Volcano ever present at the island’s centre. Originally created by flowing lava, and likely extending for many miles, one’s mind races to the incredible force of nature that created it and perhaps what the locals might have thought of them in ancient times and how they might have interacted with them. Sanctuary, ceremony, even just storage? Many such caves can be found on the island but likely most are not suitable for any but the most experienced spelunkers. If nothing else a visit here is a nice break from the heat outside. Note: as of February 2026, Google lists the cave as temporarily closed for further archeological exploration, so be sure to check ahead if you’re keen to visit.
Hana Lava Tube, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Wai’anapanapa State Park - Black Sand Beach
A mile or two after the lava tubes take another detour left towards the coast to enjoy the black sand beach of Wai’Anapanapa State Park. While this side of the island tends to be breezy, this was a nice spot to stop and relax for a while on the warm sand. I took a swim with mask and snorkel and it was quite fascinating to observe the light playing along the bottom with the grey/black sand swirling in mesmerizing patterns. The water here is exceptionally clear, which makes for some fun treasure hunting as well allowing me to spot eels, fish, a turtle and a pair of sunglasses. There’s a rinsing station at the bottom of the stairs before heading up to the parking lot and I highly recommend you use it as this sand seems to stick to everything more than usual - perhaps another of its unique properties.
Black Sand Beach, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Sumicron
Black Sand Beach, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Hana
As I said in the introduction, “It’s about the journey, not the destination”. For us Hana was not the target of this trip, but given it’s the roads’ namesake, and tummies were grumbling again, it only makes sense to stop here. Hana is a fairly quiet and unassuming village, with a beach that pales in comparison to those you’ve passed along the way as well as some of the sights that follow that I’ll touch on shortly. You’ll more than likely be hungry by the time you get here and the small food truck village on the south side of town (set your map for Poke Bob’s) is delightful and delicious with a variety of options to suite many tastes. I didn’t take many photos in Hana and that’s not a slight to the town, but we were more fixated on food and taking a bit of a break after hours in the car.
We attempted to visit the "Red Sand Beach” but were turned around by a security guard who told us it was the private property of a nearby school. Fair enough I suppose, though we didn’t see any indication of that in our pre-trip research. Hana Bay Beach Park may be a suitable spot for a picnic but I didn’t feel compelled to try swimming or sunbathing there. Suffice it to say, you aren’t enduring the road to see Hana, or at least, that shouldn’t be the mindset you approach the journey with. Call it a milestone, a box ticked, and the mid-point from which you have a decision to make, carry-on, or turn back?
Poke Bob’s Food Truck, Hana, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Koki Beach Park
Just south a few miles south of Hana is a turn-off that’s worth taking. Koki Beach Park is a beautiful bay lined with a a mix of sandy beach and rocky shoreline with the Alau Island Seabird Sanctuary visible just offshore. This, we discovered, is a favourite haunt of some local surfing schools. Students travel here from all over the island, some daily, to put in hours of practice and training in the waves. It seems far from an ideal spot for us uninitiated, with shallow reefs and jagged rocks jutting out of the waves all over. Coaches stand at the shore and brief their classes before sending them out into the sea.
Surf School at Koki Beach Park, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R
The Road Less Travelled
Leaving Koki Beach, you follow the road south and there are more sights to see including Wailua Falls -a lovely hike with a beautiful bamboo forest along it’s route. While that hike is normally worth the visit (we stopped there many years prior) we were starting to think about the road home and in particular trying to cover most of it in daylight. This is a point worth considering in your planning, driving these routes at night wouldn’t appeal to most, but with a bit of planning and an occasional eye on your watch you can cover much of it before dark and still have time to relax along the way.
Shortly after the turn-off for the falls, the road begins to get a bit rougher. Eventually you’ll come to a sign that reads “Road Closed” standing directly in your path. This is the spot the rental car shop told you not to go past along with some additional suggestions that you’re at your own risk in doing so, possibly without insurance coverage, and “there’s not much to see there”, and so on. I’m not suggesting you disregard that advice, but if one were to do so, there are certainly sights to enjoy -unlike anything you’ve seen yet. Additionally, I’ve been told that the guided tours can continue past this point, and if that option better suits your risk appetite then it may well be the preferred approach. Beyond the sign the road does indeed get rough, and has noticeably gotten worse in the ~10 year gap since we first visited, more akin to some remote Forest Service Roads in the mountains back home; with significant potholes, rocky washed-out sections, single-lane bridges and some perilous precipices adjacent crumbling sections of road on the outside of blind corners. Have I sold you on it yet? Read on.
Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
To me the South and South-West corners of Maui are spectacular. A complete change in ecosystem from what you’d experienced up to this point, you traverse from lush jungle to rolling grassy plains and dry steppes more akin to what you might see in cowboy movies (apart from the ocean and volcano, of course). It is beautifully desolate. You will encounter almost no other travellers on this stretch but for the cows at pasture and occasionally in the middle of the road. If you’ve timed your day well, you’ll start to round the South-West corner of the island as the sun begins to set and that serene vista alone has been worth doing the road to Hana twice. The road condition also improves here to the point you’re rolling on nearly perfect asphalt on an undulating road with twists and turns that beckon the riders and racers among us to pick up the pace. But the scenery and atmosphere here compels you instead to take it easy, to take it in. The stress of the hours of driving up-to that point melt away and you glide towards the setting sun in peace.
The further you travel the more massive the island and its volcano Haleakala appear. Unobstructed by palms, the view endlessly expands before you. You begin to wonder just how far you are from your starting point after all (very). Further, you ask yourself -how different can this Island be from one corner to the next? Does the towering volcano at its centre really have such power and influence that the very weather and life surrounding it changes so completely depending where in its shadow they lay? Perhaps that’s part of Maui’s charm, in its mimicry of the sheer diversity of the Earth we enjoy today -condensed into something one can experience between sunrise and sunset.
Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron
The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?