Blog
From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.
I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.
Latest Articles
Portugal - Cabanas do Lago
As we approach the area the dam becomes visible towering over a small valley. The road soon changes from paved to dirt, but nothing most cars can’t handle. We snake along it’s winding path and turn off onto a steep sided valley that surrounds one of the hundreds of coves around the perimeter of the lake. At the end of the road we see the large main house appear through the trees and are immediately greeted by one of the smiling hosts, Filipa, as we arrive.
Albufeira da Barragem de Santa Clara, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO100 1/100 f11
Change of Pace
Read Part I: Portugal - Lagos →
Back home, it’s quite common for us to book a few weekend getaways out of the city in a quiet cabin by a lake or the ocean and just relax in peace enjoying the views and explore the surrounding nature. We’re not typically doing quite the same abroad, and yet somehow this location called to us, and I’m glad it did. A bit of tourist overload in Lagos drive us to seek out our next stay a little off the beaten path. When we found the Cabanas do Lago on airbnb it immediately stood out with its 4.99 star rating and promise of simple and quiet serenity. It happened to have a pocket of availability for a few nights so we booked it as the next stop on our trip.
We had plenty of time to get there ahead of check-in, so decided to take a scenic route up along the west coast then cut back inland towards our destination. We knew we’d pass through some small towns along the way, so figured it easy enough to sort out lunch on the road, and perhaps stop at any destinations that caught our eye while we were at it. The hope was that our son would at some point nap in the car, leaving us an afternoon to settle-in to the cabin before having dinner. If you enjoy driving/riding, the roads in this area are sublime. We avoided the major highways and A roads and stuck to the windy roads that weave their way through the rolling hills. The roads are largely empty, generally cambered in your favour, and a delight of corners and short straights connecting them. A short squeeze on my arm reminded me that our econo-box Citroen was probably not at it’s best at my preferred pace, but even at a decent canter it kept the drive interesting. So would Google Maps, it turns out, as once again relying on it in this corner of Europe was not without it’s problems -read on and see why!
Approaching Praia da Amoreira (sort of), Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO160 1/200 f16
Praia da Amoreira
The weather was lovely on this travel day, so we decided to make a bit of a detour to stop at a beach to enjoy our first peek at Portugal’s west coast. It differs significantly from the south-facing Algarve, with broad white sand beaches, rather than the more secluded cliff-lined coves. It also faces the full brunt of the Atlantic ocean with larger waves and steady breezes. Amoreira sits where the mouth of a river meets the Ocean and we’d read that it was among the more beautiful beaches to visit in the area and was also flanked by a restaurant. Our map showed the beach as roughly 9km off our main route of travel, so not a big deal. We faithfully made our way along the revised route until we came to stop by a cliffside restaurant overlooking a beach. Our beach. Uh oh. Wrong side of the river.
While the route certainly took us to a place we could view the beach, there was no way to safely reach it from this spot, with a cliff and river between us and our beach destination. I checked my inputs into Google Maps and indeed the app thought we could access the beach from here, but no such luck. I would take 18km of driving to bring us to the beach just a couple hundred meters away. Fortunately, this little detour passed some stunning views, and with the little guy asleep in his car seat ahead of schedule, we decided to stop at a few spots on our way back to take a few photos where we wouldn’t otherwise be comfortable with him running about.
Aren’t we supposed to be over there? Lagos, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO320 1/200 f16
Looking down upon Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/200 f16
Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/200 f16
Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO160 1/200 f16
Praia de Monte Clergio, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO200 1/2500 f3.5
Eventually we made our way to the beach we intended to visit, and just in time for the weather to start to turn. We spent a scant few minutes on the beach before the clouds rolled in and the temperature dropped. Oh well, time for lunch anyway and time to get back on the road. As the detour set our schedule back a bit, we decided to skip the beachside restaurant in favour of picking something up at a shop or bakery along out main route.
Rocky formation on Praia da Amoreira, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO400 1/100 f16
Praia da Amoreira, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO125 1/200 f8.
Waiting while Vicky finds us some food, somewhere in southern Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO100 1/1250 f4
Cabanas do Lago
The Albufeira da Barragem de Santa Clara is an enormous man-made reservoir supported by a concrete dam at it’s west end. As we approach the area the dam becomes visible towering over a small valley. The road soon changes from paved to dirt, but nothing most cars can’t handle. We snake along it’s winding path and turn off onto a steep sided valley that surrounds one of the hundreds of coves around the perimeter of the lake. At the end of the road we see the large main house appear through the trees and are immediately greeted by one of the smiling hosts, Filipa, as we arrive.
The Cabanas do Lago property consists of a two storey main house and a pair of smaller cabins, all nestled into the side of a steeply sloped terraced hillside. The ground floor of the main house is communal and contains the kitchen and a living/dining area as well as a patio dining area with a view towards the lake. The family that owns and operates the property lives on the second floor. Our cabin was just the right size for the two of us essentially two rooms; a large bedroom, and a bathroom with shower. Glass doors making up the west wall give us a view onto the valley from our bed and ensures it’s nice and bright inside. (Cabin Photo Credit: Victoria Petriw on the XPro2)
Within minutes of arriving Filipa and her husband Luis make you feel at home and like friends of the family. The wine and beer flows and Filipa prepares an amazing meal for us to all share together on the first night. This would very much be the theme of this stay, particularly in the evenings with us hanging out with Filipa and Luis into the late hours of the night, learning about life in Portugal and how they decided to relocate their family here from busy Lisbon a few years prior. As you might suspect, other guests we met here tended to be fairly like-minded travellers as well, and we enjoyed hearing each others stories and plans for what’s next. Most days and nights we cooked meals for ourselves in the communal kitchen area and enjoyed the relaxing surroundings, but did also make one excursion out for dinner to Casa Nirvana, about half an hour’s drive away, for a change of pace. Speaking of food, the little hamlet of Santa Clara a Velha sits near enough for quick grocery runs if needed and has a couple of restaurants as well.
A nice view with breakfast, Cabanas do Lago, Samsung S20FE, ISO40 1/1600 f1.8
Looking towards the main house from the garden, Cabanas do Lago, Ricoh GRiii ISO 400 1/8 f5
View from the main house patio, note the water line, Cabanas do Lago, Ricoh GRiii ISO250 1/100 f11
Like staying at a friends’ house, Cabanas do Lago, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii ISO4000 1/25 f2.8
The approach to the main house, Cabanas do Lago, Portugal, iPhone XR ISO25 1/400 f1.8 (Credit: Vicky Petriw)
Activities in the area are naturally lake-centric and I was a bit hesitant to take the camera out most days for fear of dropping it in the water. An excursion on a canoe allowed us to visit the dam and enjoy a designated swimming area near it’s base, as well as a lovely food truck (bus) parked next to it with a rooftop patio of it’s own. It was at a point about 4 meters from shore, however; that we realized our son does not like canoes and was instead seemingly prepared to jump out of it at the first moment of inattention from one of us. “He’ll get used to it” was followed by 90 minutes or so of yelling and crying. Luckily, stuffing him full of empanadas helped, and the trip back was more relaxed.
There was an interesting tower near the dam, standing starkly with it’s brutalist design against the more organic landscape. It sat high and dry as a forgotten sentinel of a time when the lake was full to the brim. Remarkable to see it has a scale for water depth painted on the side, the bottom of which is many meters above the waterline. Another favorite activity for me was getting out on a paddle-board a bit before sunset and just exploring across the lake at random. Our hosts provide a variety of options for getting on the water and you’ll definitely want to give them a try. Stargazers also take note, it’s properly dark here in the evenings, setting the stage for beautiful night skies. The highlight for our son, (definitely not the canoe), was trying to track down the loudly croaking frogs that occasionally hopped around the property in the evening.
Tower on the Albufeira de Barragem da Santa Clara, Portugal, Ricoh GRiii
Back to Beaches
I definitely recommend this spot for those looking for a peaceful little detour and opportunity to meet and connect with some amazing people on your next visit to Portugal. Our hosts graciously shared an abundance of recommendations for the remainder of our journey, offering a multitude of dining options to explore, landmarks to see en route to Comporta, our upcoming stop, and activities to engage in within Lisbon and its vicinity during the later part of our travels. Our time at the lake ended all too quickly, but by the end we felt refreshed and ready for more exploration ahead.
Nice place for a sit, Cabanas do Lago, Portugal. Ricoh GRiii,
Koyasan - Japan
After a long day of travel getting here, we lay on our comfortable mattresses preparing to sleep when the deep hum of a gong reverberated from the forest and filled the room. It was a low tone that you feel more so than hear and one that had the hairs standing on the backs of our necks.
Kongobuji Kompon Daito Pagoda. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Serenity and the Ghost
Read Previous Part II - Kanazawa, Japan →
It’s tempting to focus on dazzling urban centers when visiting Japan, especially for a photography enthusiast. If you’re up for taking-in a breathtakingly ancient and quiet place for a few days, however; I’ve got just the spot for you. Koyasan, the home of Shingon Buddhism in Japan, is a tiny mountaintop village known for it’s clean air, dense forests, beautiful monasteries with their ryokan accommodations, and the ancient Okunoin cemetery. If that sounds interesting, read on! Let’s start with how to get here.
Rail is the way to go in Japan, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Chasing trains on the way to Koyasan. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
This way up to Koyasan! Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
The interior of the funicular forms a bit of an optical illusion. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Nankai Koyasan Cable Line, the funicular that takes you up the steep slope to Koyasan Station. Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
As is the case with most travel in Japan, the train is the mode of choice for getting to Koyasan. We left from Kyoto and spent a lovely morning winding through Osaka and into the more quiet villages in the southern foothills. You change trains twice, once in the village of Hashimoto and again when you arrive at the funicular station. This was my first time on a funicular and it was definitely a fascinating experience. Our minds are programmed for trains to be level, so walking up a staircase within the train to get from the back to front can be a bit vertigo inducing! The short ride up the hill and through the trees gives the sense of gradually entering a different world, which proved a fitting feeling given where we ended up.
Awe-inspiring 11th century Daimon Gate, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Most of the lodging in Koyasan is in the form of “ryokan” or pilgrim’s lodgings, which are effectively private rooms within a monastery. We stayed at the Fukuchi-in Temple Ryokan and I’d highly recommend it. (Since our visit they updated their website which now provides some great guidance to visiting Koyasan). The accommodation is spartan but impeccably clean and comfortable, and in keeping with the lifestyle of the monks who live there. Food is served to you in a dedicated room and with multiple servers who bring delicate traditional vegetarian dishes unique to the area that are as delicious as they are simple. There is an onsen on site which again is basic but utterly relaxing with its hot-spring fed waters bubbling in silent surroundings.
If you’re willing to get up early (and you really should), the monks invite you to join them for their morning prayer ceremony. I’ve never attended a Buddhist ceremony before, let alone one in the village at the heart of Shingon Buddhist lore, and I found myself utterly engrossed in the chants and rituals. A tip for would-be worshipers; the room the ceremony is conducted in is open to the outdoors and at that time of year, the air was just above freezing at sunrise. I was underdressed and pretty cold having chosen to wear the traditional garments offered to guests upon arrival but it somehow didn’t detract from (perhaps enhanced?) my enjoyment of the experience.
Fukuchi-in Temple, Koyasan, Praktica LTL. 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
In classical Japanese fashion, the sleeping room is an open and largely empty space with tatami mats on the floor and a large window facing into the deep coniferous forest. After the lengthy day of travel getting here, we lay to rest early on our comfortable mattresses when the deep hum of a gong reverberated from the forest and filled the room. It was a low tone that you feel more so than hear and one that had the hairs standing on the backs of our necks. It was at that moment that one of our friends felt a deliberate but gentle tap right on the center of her forehead. She yelped, startling all of us from our wispy near-sleep states. Was a playful travel companion pranking a friend? Or, a playful spirit passing through? To this day no-one has claimed responsibility for the tap, so…
Manihouto Buddhist Temple. Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Koyasan is essentially a one-road-town and easily walkable. While there are a few tiny shops and restaurants along the road, the village is largely dominated by temples, shrines and monasteries. Most visitors eat at their ryokan, but a tiny izakaya just a couple of blocks east of our lodging proved a delightful spot for dinner one night. Even at the izakaya, the restauranteur bade us trust him with the menu (or so we surmised) and served up terrific plates of sushi, pickles and tofu. Very few people we encountered here speak English, but that never seemed to be a barrier.
Okunoin, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
At the far western end of the town lies the Okunoin Cemetery and this is a sight you simply cannot miss if you are in the area. The Okunoin is a deeply spiritual place, the kind you read about in fantasy novels where hero’s and heroines have epiphanies and meet mystical beings. My skin tingles thinking back on it now even as I write this. Its grounds are essentially a 2km long meandering path through dense, tall and lush forest with tombs and graves dating back to at least 816AD lining the path and even scattered hidden behind trees and bushes. It is not as orderly as one might expect in Japan, a product of it’s ancient and seemingly haphazard expansion through the forest over hundreds of years. In Japan it is said that you are born Shintoist but die Buddhist and you certainly feel that here. There are even massive corporate tombs here for firms such as Toshiba, Mazda and other Japanese industrial giants and it is apparently a great honor for an employee to be buried here.
At the end of the walk is the tomb of Kobo Dashi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism. While photos of the tomb are not allowed, you are invited to observe the ceremonies that take place there every day, with monks feeding the spirit of Shingon’s ancient founder. While we experienced the Okunoin with daylight sun filtering through the thick green of the trees, nightime walks are available where the forest is lit entirely by lanterns. I wasn’t aware of this at the time, but might just make the trip back next time I’m in Japan just to experience that -with a different camera of course! The peril of committing to a single ISO with a choice of film stock is missing out on certain opportunities.
Incredible wood patterns under the roof of a pagoda, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
On the eastern end of town lies the Danjo-garan Buddhist Temple complex filled with a variety of ancient buildings and structures including the Kongobuji Kompon Daito Pagoda pictured at the header of this article. There was a nominal fee to enter this area and it’s well worth the spend to see and learn more of Koyasan’s history. The structures themselves are impressive, stunningly large in some cases, and beautifully painted in bright colors with intricate hanging lanterns.
One of the many buildings in the temple complex, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Walking through history, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
A trip to Koyasan provides an opportunity to see a part of Japan’s history unfettered by modernity. A rare place, that caters to pilgrims and tourists without loosing it’s authenticity and charm. I hope this short piece entices you to visit someday! Next on our journey, we were back into the hustle of urban Japan with a stop in Hiroshima. A place I’d never thought I’d see, but I’m glad I did.
Kanazawa - Japan
A guide to Kanazawa, Japan—Kenroku-en gardens, historic districts, incredible seafood, and a slower, more local side of Japan.
The Moat surrounding Kanazawa Castle, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Gardens and Sake
Read Previous Part 1: First Frames, Tokyo, Japan →
We left the urban expanse of Tokyo by train, headed for the west-coast city of Kanazawa. The train is by far the easiest and most reliable way to travel Japan and in our case, the two-week JR Rail Pass was worth every Yen. I recommend ordering your tickets in advance of your trip and picking them up when you arrive. My Canadian friends can click here to find and book the package that suits your plans best.
So, why Kanazawa? Our friend Kaeko would be in town and was excited to host us in her home city, so we jumped at the chance of a guided visit to a place a little off the typical tourist path. Compared to Tokyo, we would throttle back the pace for these next few days. Our aim, to see where our friend grew-up, enjoy it’s renowned gardens, preserved historical districts and of course, enjoy a local’s tips for where to eat & drink.
The Tea House, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Kenroku-en
Considered one of the top three most beautiful landscape gardens in Japan, Kenroku-en was as lovely and peaceful as one might expect. The spring was late in Japan that year, so the sakura which would normally be blossoming were only just budding at the time. This also meant the garden was relatively free of tourists, and thus allowed for largely unfettered exploration. It also meant we were easily able to arrange to take part in a traditional tea ceremony at the tea house which sits perched over Kasumiga-ike pond. I can still smell the tea brewing if I think back to it, a memory that calms my mind as if I were still kneeling at that table.
View from the Tea House, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Budding Sakura, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Beauty Around the Castle
Surrounding the grounds of the castle and Kenroku’en are a variety of parks, gardens and temples to enjoy. Gyokusen’inmaru is another award winning garden built in the shape of an amphitheater around it’s meandering central pond. There’s a delightful coffee shop on the west side of the garden where one can sit and sip while taking in the view.
Across the street you find the Oyama shrine and the beautiful pond adjacent to it. I particularly enjoyed the bridge across the pond with it’s seemingly eccentric jagged pattern of sudden stops and turns. Evidently the design is strategic, it’s unexpected turns and surprise drops tricking unfriendly spirits into “walking the plank” to their doom. Near the shrine, Kaeko pulled a few strings to get us an up close look inside a one-time samurai-sword making factory that now houses artisans hand crafting some of Kanazawa’s renowned pottery.
Gyokusen’inmaru Park, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Bridge at Gyokusen’imaru Park, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Pond at Oyama Shrine, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
One time sword factory, now making pottery. Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Plenty of museums also surround the area, one of the more stunning of which is the D.T. Suzuki Museum, dedicated to the prominent Buddhist philosopher of the same name. Unfortunately it was closed when we were there, but the grounds alone are worth the visit and some quiet contemplation.
D.T. Suzuki Museum, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
And Plenty of Normal Life
Of course Kanazawa isn’t all castles and gardens, and while I left the camera at home most nights for fear of sake-induced damage, there’s plenty of enjoyment to be found in the city’s everyday life. Highlights included an all you can drink sake bar (yes, really), the Nagamachi historic samurai neighborhood (visited by moonlight, after the sake) and what must be the tiniest, most delicious and characterful yakitori restaurant I could imagine (I’ve sadly heard it’s no longer open). The Higashi Chaya district blends history and real life and is perhaps your best chance of spotting a real geisha on the way to/from work (or tourists attempting to dress like one). The area is known for it’s ultra-fine gold-leaf based crafting, so we jumped at the chance to make our own real-gold coated chopsticks!
Speaking of chopsticks, the seafood in town is remarkable, we tried a kaiten-zushi style restaurant with a mini-shinkansen delivery system ordered off a tablet menu. Aside from the novel delivery system, I’ve never experienced melt-in-your-mouth sashimi like that before and it’s reason enough for me to day-dream of returning soon.
Light Leaks at the market, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Kazuemachi Stroll, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Craft Beer, Kanazawa style, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Your Own Path
Kanazawa may not be a destination that springs to mind when planning a trip to Japan. But with the Shinkansen ride through beautiful countryside taking only 2.5 hours from Tokyo, and an abundance of culture, atmosphere and food to enjoy, it’s a place worth considering for your itinerary. We covered a lot of ground in a short time during our visit, but never felt rushed or busy about it; a great little reprieve before diving into the rest of our journey.
Kanazawa Alleys, Praktica LTL, 50mm Meyer-Optik Domiplan Lens, Kodak Portra 400
Undersea Fiji - Viwa
The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond.
A Garden of Coral, Viwa Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
As I described in my last post, the Island of Viwa is an isolated place, situated on the extreme Western edge of the Yasawa group of the Fijian Islands. It’s a long boat ride from anywhere, so I recommend the short 25 minute float-plane/chopper flight from Nadi rather than the ferry-boat transfer option. Crossing the choppy seas in a small vessel can be daunting for some, and eats up most of a day you’d rather spend on the beach or beneath the waves.
So, let’s dive right in, shall we?
Eagle rays patrol the edge of the reef. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond. Because of the shape and location of the gap, it inevitably meant jumping some big waves whilst passing quite close to the rusting wreck of a vessel that didn’t quite get it right. Yikes. Once through the gap the sea is your oyster and a myriad of potential dive sites awaits you.
Clownfish and it’s Anemone, Olympus Tough TG3, Macro setting, Dive Housing
Clownfish guarding eggs, Olympus Tough TG3, Macro setting, Dive Housing
Unlike the Rainbow Reef where my focus was on the smaller denizens of the sea, in the waters surrounding Viwa it was some of the larger creatures and vistas that caught my gaze and lens. That’s not to say there weren’t plenty of the little guys around (as you see above), but there were certainly an abundance of larger fish one simply couldn’t ignore.
The Viwa dive sites we visited (The Zoo, Coral Garden and Fantasea) were all characterized by a fairly deep dive profile and rolling coral mounts that dropped off into the vanishing deep blue of the open ocean. We would slowly dive along the edge of these precipices, splitting our attention between the corals and rocks on one side, and the vast blue nothing on the other - waiting for something to appear.
Bilo leading the way, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
I was fortunate to be the only diver at Viwa that week and so was able to enjoy the solitude of the sea with just Bilo, the dive leader, to guide me to his favorite spots. He always seemed to know where to stop and wait for the magic to happen, and he clearly liked the pelagic fish most of all.
Giant Trevally swims in from the blue, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Schools of Barracuda and Rainbow Runners crossing paths, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Barred Mackerel gets close, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
One of the neat things about stopping to observe the fish is the opportunity to note behavior you might not have noticed before. Bilo and I hovered motionless in one spot for about 10 minutes just watching the world swim by and noting how the fish reacted (or didn’t) to our presence. A glint of sunlight in my peripheral vision attracted me to one interesting and unexpected display. A pair of Dogtooth Tuna were playing around in the open water, one swimming just above the other but tilted so that it was swimming on it’s side, and smacking the tuna bellow it with it’s tail as it went. I literally laughed into my regulator watching this playtime unfold before us, imagining one to be the older sibling mercilessly teasing the other. Not what I was expecting to see from a fish that can reach nearly 2.5m in length and 150kg.
Dogtooth Tuna Playing around. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
At the dive site known as “The Zoo”, the sheer volume of fish on display can not be understated. At any moment any of the above would show up, plus a variety of Turtles, Rays and yes, Sharks, including a mismatched pair of Black Tip and White Tip Reef Sharks that together seemed to be patrolling the zone between reef and the deep.
Black Tip Reef Shark, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Eagle Ray Pair, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Looking for the EAC? Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Lone Barracuda follows me around for a bit. Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
White Tip gets real close, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
For snorkelers, the area immediately off the beach is a bit barren, but venturing closer to the barrier reef quickly produces more interesting sites and varieties of fish to see. You probably want to do this with a buddy, as it requires getting a bit far from shore and the outbound current can be strong depending on the tides. I challenge you to find the garden of colorful giant clams, it’s hidden in plain sight straight off shore from the resort’s gear hut. I also highly recommend the guided snorkeling tour, which takes you by boat to a site not otherwise reachable from the resort. There we saw more sharks (including a leopard shark! - no photo I’m afraid) and more varieties of coral and fish.
Resting Grouper, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
You could probably spend your entire Viwa dive trip at “The Zoo” and not get bored (we went twice), but there’s plenty to see at all the sites and plenty of sites I didn’t yet see! I’m often curious how dive operators in these places discover and plot-out the dive sites they’ll take visitors to. Is it by trial and error, general local knowledge, or perhaps leveraging past research? If you have some ideas I’d love to hear from you in the comments section down bellow.
School of Trevally, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Regardless which site you dive, seeing Viwa from beneath the waves is a must. You can plunge right into the wild and be back at the resort in time for lunch. It's hidden treasure trove of natural beauty forming the perfect compliment to your relaxing beach-time topside.
Bilo leads back out of the cave, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Little Viwa
The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long…
Viwa Island Resort, Viwa Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
Read Part IV: Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef →
Viwa is the westernmost of Fiji’s 330 islands. Sitting 23 kilometers from it’s nearest neighbor and surrounded by it’s own barrier reef, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re a long way from nowhere out here. Our original plan was to take a float plane over from Nadi, thus saving the half day boat trip over seas that can occasionally be a bit rough. Unfortunately, we received notice a few days before the trip that the plane was out of commission; luckily the airline had an alternative for us…
Flying over Waya on the way to Viwa, Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor lens, Kodak Ektar 100
With the float-plane out of commission and the airline committed to getting us to our destination, they offered us a ride over in their little helicopter. Talk about making a grand entrance to the resort! This was a first for me, and I loved the experience. On the way to Viwa you have to fly over the Mamanuca Island chain, famous for it’s picture-perfect tiny islands and the exclusive resorts tucked inside them. Our pilot was something of a hot-shot who loved getting low to the islands, and up close to the mountain tops and cliffs we passed along the way. From the water you wouldn’t see much more than the island shores, so this bonus sight-seeing again validated our decision to fly. In a short 25 minutes we were over Viwa and landing on the soft grass helipad behind the resort with smiles and waves from the staff greeting us to our home for the next week.
Tivua Island, Fiji, NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Approach to Viwa, Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
In stark contrast to the mountainous landscapes of eastern Vanua Levu, Viwa is flat as a pancake, rising just a few meters above sea level and nestled within an encircling barrier reef. Our home for this week would be the Viwa Island Resort, located on the eastern shore of the island. There are three villages on the island, which are home to most of the staff here. The resort itself is simple, with about a dozen small private villas just a few meters up from the beach, each with it’s own thatched umbrellas and sun-beds out front on the sand. The main pavilion serves as restaurant, bar and activity center. We quickly settled into a rhythm that was focused on relaxation, soaking up some sun, and (in my case) snorkeling and diving. Compared to The Remote Resort, I’d say the feel here was a bit more spartan and laissez-faire, with most of your time spent on the beach with a good book or drink (or both) in hand. There are a few guided activities, and aside from snorkeling I’d say fishing from a little boat by hand-reel (like the locals do) was one of my favorites. Turns out i’m no better at that than I am with a fishing rod in hand.
Divers take note: While the resort offers scuba diving, the dive leader is not a full time resident of the resort. Call or email in advance to ensure they’ve scheduled him to be there for your visit, thus avoiding disappointment! And yes it’s worth diving here, as you’ll see in this post!
Viwa Island Resort Beach from Cabin 7, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Viwa Island Resort Beach Walk, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
A lovely place to read, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The reef here is not quite as healthy as those we experienced off Vanua Levu, but the snorkeling is still a treat, especially with the many turtles, parrot fish and trigger fish that call the waters right off the resort home. We even spotted a blacktip reef shark and a sleeping leopard shark while enjoying the guided snorkeling in the deeper waters further south on the island. The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long (and did, when I wanted to get another drink or snack!) and just enjoy the feeling of it beneath my toes.
The food for the resort is harvested right on site for the most part, either from the sea or the extensive gardens tucked behind the villa area. I highly recommend asking for a quick tour of the facility as it’s really well thought-out, right down to the solar power cells that provide the power and heat for hot water. At a site like this, sustainability is survivability -both economically and environmentally- when considering the delicate ecosystems in play and the distances from alternative suppliers.
Visiting the vegetable growing fields behind the resort. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Viwa Veggies, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Viwa was a lovely spot for a break. Perhaps not as adventurous in feel as I would normally seek-out (though the diving took care of that) but nonetheless a great place to just chill and take in the beauty of the sea and the warmth of the sand. As with many such places, the opportunity to make friends is there at meal time and happy hour, but the setup is really ideally suited for couples; and allows a sufficient feel of seclusion for you to enjoy each-others company without having to step through walls of tourists to find a spot to relax.
When it came time to leave Viwa, we received word that our float plane was still broken, and now so-to was the helicopter (yikes?). The boat trip back reaffirmed what a good idea it was to try to fly in and out of this little island paradise. A quick evening storm the night before and the ensuing winds whipped up waves that made the trip feel more like an obstacle course than anything else. That said, running the gauntlet of waves at the lone narrow break in the barrier reef is experience enough to get most thrill-seekers grinning ear to ear, so if you dig that then give it a go! You’ll have to anyway, if you’re going to reach the dives sites beyond.
Viwa and the Sea, Fiji, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter
Planning my dive with Bilo, DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef
The first time I dive a new area I find my focus starts out on the big picture - landscapes, colours, and the contours of the seafloor/reef. At the Rainbow Reef, that big picture immediately sends you into sensory overload.
Coral Garden, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
Read Part II: A Glimpse of Village Life →
As a kid, I grew up idolizing Jacques Cousteau. Inventor, adventurer, owner of the fabled RV Calypso, and leader of a band of like-minded explorers ready to go at the drop of a starfish. Cliche? Sure but that doesn’t make it less true and so here I am, a grown-man diving while imagining myself a part of his crew. The imagination doesn’t have to stretch too far though, because The Calypso visited the Fijian Islands, and Captain Jacques himself discovered some of the reefs I would have the opportunity to dive on this trip.
As lush and beautiful as Fiji is on the surface, beneath the waves it can be even more spectacular. I was fortunate to complete 8 dives on our two week visit to the Fijian Islands, half on the Rainbow Reef in the East, and the other half in the waters surrounding Viwa in the far West. Surprisingly, the two areas couldn't be more different, but both have plenty to offer the undersea explorer. The Rainbow Reef is situated in the waters between Vanua Levu and Taveuni -known locally as “The Garden Island” for it’s lush jungles. The local dive companies operate off Taveuni, but most resorts will arrange for you to meet them via shuttle boat or a ride to their home base. Fun fact about Taveuni: the International Date Line runs right through it, cutting the island in two. The locals refer to each-other as the people from the future, or the people from the past, depending which side of the island one lives on - how fun is that?
Can’t see on the surface, what will we see down below? Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
Admittedly, I wasn’t expecting a storm, this was meant to be the dry season after-all, and yet a day after our arrival in Fiji the clouds ominously appeared and the wind started to blow. Oh well, I best dive then. One of the wonderful perks about being a diver is that a rainy day that might bum-out the sun tanners won’t dampen your spirits because you’re getting wet anyway. So when the skies darkened, I was on the resort shuttle boat to meet up with Taveuni Ocean Sports for my first two dives at the Rainbow Reef.
The scene above the waves wasn’t too inviting. Timing the leap from shuttle boat to dive boat was an adventure unto itself (you don't want to get pinned between the two), but the crew did a great job helping me aboard. After some brief introductions we reviewed the mornings' dive plan and quickly geared-up. The crew were confident that this squall would blow over soon, so after the usual final-check it was giant stride off the back and down we go...
Coral Spire, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.
It’s busy down here, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
The diversity is mind-blowing. Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing
The first time I dive a new area I find my focus starts out on the big picture - landscapes, colours, and the contours of the seafloor/reef. At the Rainbow Reef, that big picture immediately sends you into sensory overload. The abundance and diversity of fish & corals packed into every square meter of reef is unbelievable. I was immediately relieved to see the corals healthy and unbleached. We quickly reach our target depth at around 20m and catch the slight current which will send us along one side of the reef. As we drift, I spend some time just observing and enjoying feeling a part of a scene equally hectic and serene.
As the initial “wow” factor settles down, it’s the little things, then the tiny things that start to capture our attention. Most dive masters and instructors I’ve met around the world seem captivated by the smallest denizens of the sea, and as they seek them out for us, so to my own lens sharpens in focus. Inevitably the little game begins (in my head) of who will spot the coolest creatures first.
Dive Master finds a Whip Coral Shrimp, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
Nudibranch. The diversity of these “sea slugs” is utterly amazing. Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
I love finding these Christmas Tree Worms. Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
Blue Striped Nudibranch, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
Another Whip Coral Shrimp held by the Dive Master, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
This is a dive site that leaves you with a whole new appreciation for nature’s ingenuity. You think animals on land adapt well to their environments? How about a shrimp that perfectly matches the colour of the single whip of coral it lives on. And then there’s the Nudibranch’s, did they land on Earth following an asteroid collision? Probably one of the more wildly diverse and colourful species I’ve ever seen. Sure there were larger fish swimming with us here as well, blacktip reef sharks, humphead wrasse, barracuda and more, but I’ll leave those for you to find.
I would do 4 dives in total at the Rainbow Reef; but you could do 40 and still not see it all. While I rarely visit the same places in the world more than once (there’s too much to see in one lifetime!), I think if I were to book a dedicated dive trip in the future it would be on Taveuni so that I could dive these waters over and over. Due to the timing of my trip, I missed the Great White Wall altogether, meant to be the single best dive site here -that alone is meant to be worth a trip back. The next half of my Fiji trip would be in the far western side of the island group, on tiny Viwa. Will the experience be similar? Let’s find out!
Clownfish, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
Sea Anemone waves good-bye, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash
A Glimpse of Village Life
While the villages’ appearance was spartan by Western standards, it’s integration with its environment and the sheer abundance therein is nothing sort of astounding. Everything the Vunikurans need grows all over the village grounds, on the mountain slope behind, or in the sea.
There’s no place like home, Vunikura village Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Read Part I: Let’s Get Remote →
We seized the opportunity to visit the traditional Fijian village of Vunikura as a morning excursion from The Remote Resort. Located on the same eastern peninsula of Vanua Levu as the resort itself, it’s a swift 20 minute boat ride to the village shore. As we arrived, the residents greeted us with song and dance -a ritual you’ll soon grow accustomed to in this country- and then went back to their daily lives while our host, Paul, introduced himself. Paul had returned to his village following his formal education to help his people find ways to reconnect with traditions, while boosting their local economy to enable a renaissance of the village infrastructure. Our tour also came with a little tag-a-long, in the form of 5 year-old Michael, a precocious child who clearly got a kick out of meeting and “guiding” visitors such as ourselves around his home turf.
Paul & Michael, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
While the villages’ appearance was spartan by Western standards, it’s integration with its environment and the sheer abundance therein is nothing sort of astounding. Everything the Vunikurans need grows all over the village grounds, on the mountain slope behind, or in the sea. From breadfruit to bananas, I hardly think we passed a plant that wasn’t used for food, building material, textiles, medicines, or revenue (and in some cases several of these simultaneously). Nobody “owns” the trees or bushes, regardless of proximity to home, the abundance is managed, harvested and processed communally. Chief among these crops is the Fijian’s beloved Kava.
Kava root, chopped, sorted and drying in the sun. NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Kava consumption by local Fijians follows the tradition laid down by countless generations past. Basically, where you and I might sit down over a beer (or 3) at the end of a long day, Fijian’s prefer the relaxing and euphoric properties of powdered Kava root. It’s served by a host from a large bowl wherein it’s steeped in ambient-temperature water. The taste and texture is close to a thin silty soup, but the effect is certainly enjoyable and people always seemed ready to share some with us. Almost every town and village grows it’s own, and in the case of Vunikura as with many others, the crops are tended and processed communally. The revenues are not insignificant, with 1kg of Kava fetching $10 when sold to local wholesalers, who go on to sell it both domestically (for it’s typical ceremonial and social uses) and abroad to hungry Pharmaceutical companies seeking to capitalize on it’s effects for anti-anxiety remedies. It’s the roots of older Kava plants that house the magic. The older the root, the more potent it’s effects. If your tongue and lips are tingling, you’ve got the good stuff. Give it a try when you visit here.
Collecting water from the cistern, NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
“Fijian families can grow quite large” notes Paul with a wink as some kids run by us, “there’s no birth control used here”. All members of the family contribute and live together in houses that have few if any separate rooms within. Instead, houses are sectioned thematically with guests and visiting relatives sticking to the front of the home, while space is dedicated to close family as you move towards the back. Homes stay in the family for generations and many built from local palm logs, leaves and other fibers can stand for 80 years or more. Paul hopes to return his people to the use of traditional building methods and materials, and away from the cheap and easy corrugated metal that adorns many of the village buildings.
A Vunikura home, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
The village children, on a break from school, strategically played nearby wherever we wandered. It was refreshing, no screens in-hand, sticks for horses (or swords depending on the needs of the moment), and a lot of laughter. Sure there were some Batman pants and Lightning Mcqueen t-shirts in the mix, but you got the sense that these kids appreciated the playground that nature has given them and the freedom their parents allow. Kids are schooled in the village until they grow to middle-school age, at which point they enter a boarding school system typically far from home. Paul reassured us that the system worked quite well, providing plenty of opportunity for kids to learn about the histories of the many Fijian provinces as well as the world beyond their shores. As with anywhere, some come back home, while others carry on to post-secondary institutions and perhaps move to the larger cities to follow their career aspirations. Still, you quickly came to learn that the Fijian family unit is very strong with deep rooted traditions and sense of belonging. Many of the people we met and chatted with on our Fiji travels frequently visited home on their weeks off, helping their parents and siblings with the family farms and businesses.
Michael pushing his car along. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Checking us out, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Hanging out while mum’s work. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Paul’s aspiration is to put Vunikura on the map, both literally and figuratively. He’s begun working with his community to apply ancestral knowledge and techniques in the use of locally grown materials to restore their village to a more harmonious aesthetic with it’s surroundings. He joins them in the songs and dances that are their traditional methods for recording and retelling history, including the lovely concert they put on for us at the end of our visit. I loved the fact that they made it interactive, getting us to dance along as they explained the meaning of each song.
What’s next? Paul hopes to construct a purpose built cottage in the village for visitors such as ourselves to stay in. In fact, he’s hoping to list it on airbnb when it’s done, and what an experience that would be! A chance to truly immerse in the village life, rather than catch just a fleeting glimpse.
‘till next time, Vunikura Fiji, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Let's Get Remote
They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis.
The Pier at The Remote Resort. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100,
The decision to visit Fiji was made quickly. Unusual for us, where months of analysis paralysis typically precedes any trip abroad. It had been a typically soggy Vancouver winter and spring, and we wanted to visit someplace a little off the beaten path (for us Canadians at least) with warm waters, palm trees and few expectations beyond that. We booked our flights in April for September, and promptly forgot to do anything else until the warm sunshine of July reminded us that we had a trip to plan out. While the Fijian islands are rife with beautiful mega-resorts our temperament has been to seek the quieter spots in the places we visit. Fiji did not disappoint with our options in this regard.
The Pier from above. DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
The Remote Resort
They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis. It took some effort to get here, a small plane ride from Nadi to Taveuni and then a 45min boat trip to the resort, but this just added to the sense that you were truly getting away from everything. There are 8 villas to choose from, all with spectacular ocean views, and a main pavilion that serves as bar, restaurant and meeting place. Other than that your backstop is a lush tropical jungle and your front yard is the crystal clear South Pacific -not bad.
Our Villa at Remote Resort. NIkon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Coffee and breakfast at the main pavilion. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
We swapped to an unbooked villa at the end of our trip so we could stay a bit longer. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
The staff make you feel welcome right away, with a greeting song as your boat approaches the resorts’ lone pier. They’ve already taken the time to memorize your names, and use them throughout your stay. This quickly makes you feel like part of the family, and encourages you to try the same! You quickly learn that the Fijian’s are an extremely musical people, everyone sings and it seems no-one is bashful! From the pier our host, Katoni, takes us to our welcoming kava ceremony. We knew nothing about kava before that morning, but came to quickly enjoy the relaxing effect it has on the body and mind. And hey, we were here to relax, right? Well yes and no, see I’m a diver and one that’s well aware that just a few kilometers off-shore rests The Rainbow Reef, purportedly first documented by Jacques Cousteau himself, and considered one of the worlds great dive sites. While Remote lacks a dive shop of it’s own, they’re well set-up to connect you with one of the dive co.’s on Taveuni, and even provide a shuttle boat ride to meet them at the reef. Even if you aren’t comfortable with tanks on your back, the snorkeling right off the beach at Remote is second to none and ensures you don’t miss out on Fiji’s amazing undersea treasures. (More on the diving to follow in a subsequent blog post!)
The first day at Remote goes by in a blur and the deep dark of the true night sky quickly lulls us to sleep. In fact, we slept an average of 10 hours per night during our week-long stay here. A combination of the lack of light pollution and the soothing soft crash of waves against the shore forming the perfect sleep aid -assisted by a few sips of kava, of course.
Beachside torches being lit at dusk. Nikon FE, 135mm Nikkor-Q Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
Excursions and Activities
If you wanted to spend your entire visit somewhere between your villa, the beach and the main pavilion for food and drinks you’d easily have a wonderful time. But if you’re the restless type like us, there’s plenty to do outside the confines of the resort, and the staff are happy to accommodate. The “Hidden Beach Castaway Day” is a must for couples, a way to get even more remote than the resort itself. Dropped off with a picnic lunch and drinks, the rest is up to your imagination. Honeymooners take note.
The Hidden Beach at dawn. DJI Mavic Air, Freewell Polarizing Filter.
The Hidden Beach, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100.
If you’re feeling particularly adventurous, the Manta Snorkeling experience might be right up your alley. Easily one of my favorite sights under the sea, I jump at any chance to see them up close. The site is all the way up near Rabi Island, so it’s a decent boat ride but the scenery along the way is lovely as you’d expect. Gather up your courage before jumping in because the water is deep and in our case quite wavy. My wife Victoria -who is a fan of neither of those scenarios, nor large sea creatures- drew inspiration from the 76 year old Venetian couple who were the first to jump in, to then leap in after us and join the search for these majestic creatures. The Mantas didn’t disappoint. With 5 meter wing-spans and the grace of ballerinas, they swam straight at us in an undersea game of chicken before tilting just slightly downward and passing beneath in formation. On their second pass (me being me…) I decided to try and join their formation, taking a deep breath and diving down, kicking hard with my fins to keep up. Approaching from the side, they saw me coming and remarkably one let me get close enough to gently pet the side of its wing. I can tell you there is nothing smoother feeling than a Manta’s skin. Well out of breath, I dashed for the surface excited to share my story. In total we experienced 5 passes by the Manta group, and when it was time to say goodbye they swam to the surface and waved at us. I kid you not. We all stared awestruck at the experience, and eagerly chatted about it as we munched our snacks on the ride back to the Resort.
The “Leader” of the 5 Mantas. Olympus TG-3 with Dive Housing.
For a taste of traditional Fijian living, the morning visit to the nearby village of Vunikura is a must. We almost skipped the opportunity due to some kava-induced laziness but I’m glad we gathered up the energy to go. I enjoyed it so much I wrote a piece just on that brief but beautiful little trip.
Vunikura Village, FIji. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Just Relax
Our modus operandi is usually to explore the living daylights out of the places we travel to, and inevitably come home somewhat more burned-out than when we left. With this venue we were quite happy to depart from that approach, and just take each day as it came. All I wanted to do was soak in the energy of my surroundings, whether that meant sitting on the beach, or strolling the short jungle path behind the resort to catch a view. I used my stomach to tell the time for me. Hungry? It’s probably time to head up to the pavilion for a bite of lunch. Here I’ll add my one note of caution for would-be visitors to the Fijian Isles: food and drink is heavily taxed, and of course the remoteness of many of the resorts just adds to the cost of getting that food to your plate. Luckily, portion sizes are large, so within a couple of days Victoria and I were comfortable sharing dishes for some of our meals just to ensure we didn’t come home to an over-full credit card. That said if the opportunity to enjoy an entire open-flame cooked snapper for dinner on the beach presents itself, say yes!
I’d be remiss not to make note of the optional daily massage package. You can enjoy a different treatment each day (and we did), with the most memorable being a full-body palm leaf wrap to soak-in the moisturizing oils! I’ll admit I just enjoyed the laugh at looking like a human Zongzi in that case. Of course, you can opt to take as many or few treatments as you like, but given this was the start of our trip we decided to dive into the relaxation head-first.
Victoria enjoying the sunrise. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Palms lean as the sea pokes through, Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
Parting Thoughts
The Remote Resort is a wonderful place to pause and enjoy an unspoiled corner of our world. I didn’t see a single contrail in the sky the week I was there. Think about that for a moment, when was the last time you could say the same? The staff that are delightful to interact with, the nature is ready to stun the senses and accommodations are carefully designed to augment your enjoyment of it all. The dark nights without light pollution, and gentle waves lapping the shore allow you to really sleep deeply. Catching up on sleep has magic powers as far as your health and energy is concerned (If you don’t believe me, read this.), so I think that in itself really helped me enjoy my time there to the fullest. With all this, the Remote Resort becomes a very difficult place to leave. Have we set the bar too high right at the beginning?
Sunrise. Nikon FE, 20mm Nikkor Lens, Kodak Ektar 100
A relaxed Palm Springs getaway featuring mid-century architecture, great restaurants, boutique hotels, pool days, and desert sunshine.