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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.

I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.

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Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef

The first time I dive a new area I find my focus starts out on the big picture - landscapes, colours, and the contours of the seafloor/reef. At the Rainbow Reef, that big picture immediately sends you into sensory overload.

Coral Garden, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing

Read Part II: A Glimpse of Village Life →

As a kid, I grew up idolizing Jacques Cousteau. Inventor, adventurer, owner of the fabled RV Calypso, and leader of a band of like-minded explorers ready to go at the drop of a starfish. Cliche? Sure but that doesn’t make it less true and so here I am, a grown-man diving while imagining myself a part of his crew. The imagination doesn’t have to stretch too far though, because The Calypso visited the Fijian Islands, and Captain Jacques himself discovered some of the reefs I would have the opportunity to dive on this trip.

As lush and beautiful as Fiji is on the surface, beneath the waves it can be even more spectacular. I was fortunate to complete 8 dives on our two week visit to the Fijian Islands, half on the Rainbow Reef in the East, and the other half in the waters surrounding Viwa in the far West. Surprisingly, the two areas couldn't be more different, but both have plenty to offer the undersea explorer. The Rainbow Reef is situated in the waters between Vanua Levu and Taveuni -known locally as “The Garden Island” for it’s lush jungles. The local dive companies operate off Taveuni, but most resorts will arrange for you to meet them via shuttle boat or a ride to their home base. Fun fact about Taveuni: the International Date Line runs right through it, cutting the island in two. The locals refer to each-other as the people from the future, or the people from the past, depending which side of the island one lives on - how fun is that?

Can’t see on the surface, what will we see down below? Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.

Admittedly, I wasn’t expecting a storm, this was meant to be the dry season after-all, and yet a day after our arrival in Fiji the clouds ominously appeared and the wind started to blow. Oh well, I best dive then. One of the wonderful perks about being a diver is that a rainy day that might bum-out the sun tanners won’t dampen your spirits because you’re getting wet anyway. So when the skies darkened, I was on the resort shuttle boat to meet up with Taveuni Ocean Sports for my first two dives at the Rainbow Reef.

The scene above the waves wasn’t too inviting. Timing the leap from shuttle boat to dive boat was an adventure unto itself (you don't want to get pinned between the two), but the crew did a great job helping me aboard. After some brief introductions we reviewed the mornings' dive plan and quickly geared-up. The crew were confident that this squall would blow over soon, so after the usual final-check it was giant stride off the back and down we go...

Coral Spire, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing.

It’s busy down here, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing

The diversity is mind-blowing. Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3, Dive Housing

The first time I dive a new area I find my focus starts out on the big picture - landscapes, colours, and the contours of the seafloor/reef. At the Rainbow Reef, that big picture immediately sends you into sensory overload. The abundance and diversity of fish & corals packed into every square meter of reef is unbelievable. I was immediately relieved to see the corals healthy and unbleached. We quickly reach our target depth at around 20m and catch the slight current which will send us along one side of the reef. As we drift, I spend some time just observing and enjoying feeling a part of a scene equally hectic and serene.

As the initial “wow” factor settles down, it’s the little things, then the tiny things that start to capture our attention. Most dive masters and instructors I’ve met around the world seem captivated by the smallest denizens of the sea, and as they seek them out for us, so to my own lens sharpens in focus. Inevitably the little game begins (in my head) of who will spot the coolest creatures first.

Dive Master finds a Whip Coral Shrimp, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

Nudibranch. The diversity of these “sea slugs” is utterly amazing. Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

I love finding these Christmas Tree Worms. Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

Blue Striped Nudibranch, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

Another Whip Coral Shrimp held by the Dive Master, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

This is a dive site that leaves you with a whole new appreciation for nature’s ingenuity. You think animals on land adapt well to their environments? How about a shrimp that perfectly matches the colour of the single whip of coral it lives on. And then there’s the Nudibranch’s, did they land on Earth following an asteroid collision? Probably one of the more wildly diverse and colourful species I’ve ever seen. Sure there were larger fish swimming with us here as well, blacktip reef sharks, humphead wrasse, barracuda and more, but I’ll leave those for you to find.

I would do 4 dives in total at the Rainbow Reef; but you could do 40 and still not see it all. While I rarely visit the same places in the world more than once (there’s too much to see in one lifetime!), I think if I were to book a dedicated dive trip in the future it would be on Taveuni so that I could dive these waters over and over. Due to the timing of my trip, I missed the Great White Wall altogether, meant to be the single best dive site here -that alone is meant to be worth a trip back. The next half of my Fiji trip would be in the far western side of the island group, on tiny Viwa. Will the experience be similar? Let’s find out!

Continue to Part IV: Little Viwa →

Clownfish, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

Sea Anemone waves good-bye, Rainbow Reef Fiji, Olympus Tough TG3 on Macro Setting, Dive Housing, Integrated Flash

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