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From cobblestoned Portuguese alleys navigated one-handed with a stroller to reef dives in Fiji, this is where the trips live. Told through words and whatever camera happened to be with me.

I shoot film and digital and travel with family in tow. These posts are part travel journal, part photography log, and part love letter to the places that made an impression. I hope they make you want to go see them for yourself.

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The Road to Hana — Beyond the Turn (Part II)
The Road to Hana — Beyond the Turn (Part II)

The Road to Hana and beyond — narrow roads, raw coastline, and the question every traveler faces: turn back, or keep going?

West Maui in Monochrome — Kaanapali, Napili & Kapalua (Part 1)
West Maui in Monochrome — Kaanapali, Napili & Kapalua (Part 1)

When I booked a week away to the Island of Maui, a project dawned on me to abandon the temptation to capture the vivid colours of the island and seek instead to document it as I first saw it through the monochrome images shared by explorers and tourists generations before me.

Portugal - Sintra
Portugal - Sintra

The last leg of our trip was here in Lisbon. We had several days to explore the city and the idea was to do so on foot, rambling the narrow and hilly cobbled streets with one hand on the stroller and the other with the camera. No plan of action here, so let’s see what the city decides to show us!

Portugal - Lisbon
Portugal - Lisbon

The last leg of our trip was here in Lisbon. We had several days to explore the city and the idea was to do so on foot, rambling the narrow and hilly cobbled streets with one hand on the stroller and the other with the camera. No plan of action here, so let’s see what the city decides to show us!

Portugal - Nazare
Portugal - Nazare

Nazare sits on a steeply sloping hillside terminating at a broad crescent beach adjacent the ocean. The beach you see in front of the bulk of the town is not in fact where the world-famous big-wave surfing takes place. That area rather, is on the opposite side of a steep rocky outcrop that extends 500m or so into the sea on the north end of town. But for starters we thought we’d tour the city and see what it has to offer.

Portugal - Comporta
Portugal - Comporta

It's a bit of a tricky beach. And what I mean by that is, on the first day one could wade out through the surf quite some distance before it got above thigh height. The waves were of a decent size and surf-board rentals and lessons are available here which certainly suits the character and conditions of the waters. On the second day, I tried the same wade into the ocean and got a bit of a surprise…

Portugal - Cabanas do Lago
Portugal - Cabanas do Lago

As we approach the area the dam becomes visible towering over a small valley. The road soon changes from paved to dirt, but nothing most cars can’t handle. We snake along it’s winding path and turn off onto a steep sided valley that surrounds one of the hundreds of coves around the perimeter of the lake. At the end of the road we see the large main house appear through the trees and are immediately greeted by one of the smiling hosts, Filipa, as we arrive.

Portugal - Lagos
Portugal - Lagos

The Algarve seemed the logical choice for starting our trip to Portugal. It was well recommended by friends, and since we were arriving in early September, the timing gave us the best chance of experiencing some beach-worthy weather to kick off the relaxation.

Mallorca - Palma
Mallorca - Palma

The sun came out for us in Palma and we got a taste of the heat that makes Mallorca such a popular destination for travellers. It’s here we’d get a bit of real beach-time, plenty of walking, cold drinks and al fresco dining.

Mallorca - Cala St. Vincenc
Mallorca - Cala St. Vincenc

It didn’t seem right to do a trip to Mallorca without staying at a beachside resort of some kind, so we decided to take advantage of shoulder-season rates to stay at the Grupotel Molins, located along one of the crystal blue bays of the resort town of Cala St. Vincenc.

Mallorca - Fornalutx
Mallorca - Fornalutx

The views from town are magnificent, especially looking back across the valley at the various and ancient terraced orchards and olive groves. There are a number of hikes up and down available to explore, but with the stroller in tow we decided to stick to the cobble stones streets which were a steep enough challenge on their own.

Mallorca - Soller
Mallorca - Soller

Soller was buzzing with activity when we were there. While there were plenty of tourists, it’s clear that there is a large local community here and the buzz of them going about their day creates a great vibe in the town center. While bigger than Deia, Soller is by no means large, and exploring it on foot is the best way to go for the most part, especially with the aforementioned narrow lanes.

Mallorca - First Taste of Spain
Mallorca - First Taste of Spain

It was a last minute idea. From intention, to booking, to flight in less than two weeks. It’s not often one makes a significant career change, and this one warranted a few weeks abroad to rest and reset. Mallorca was not an obvious destination for us, coming from Vancouver where Hawaii or Mexico might be the more frequented, and frankly closer, destinations.

Japan - Epilogue - Travelling with Film Photography
Japan - Epilogue - Travelling with Film Photography

One Camera, one lens, and one film stock. That’s where we started this first photographic sojourn to Japan. A fitting assignment, I think, considering the countries’ own reputation for blending the new with the old. What follows is a few of my learnings for would-be film photography travelers.

Hiroshima - Japan
Hiroshima - Japan

I was at times perhaps too stingy with my shooting, and other times I felt compelled to snap a photo of some okonomiyaki. In time I’d develop a rhythm (and tendency to overpack) to my shooting that freed me to shoot unencumbered by worry of running out out of film.

Koyasan - Japan
Koyasan - Japan

After a long day of travel getting here, we lay on our comfortable mattresses preparing to sleep when the deep hum of a gong reverberated from the forest and filled the room. It was a low tone that you feel more so than hear and one that had the hairs standing on the backs of our necks.

Kanazawa - Japan
Kanazawa - Japan

A guide to Kanazawa, Japan—Kenroku-en gardens, historic districts, incredible seafood, and a slower, more local side of Japan.

First Frames, Tokyo - Japan
First Frames, Tokyo - Japan

Admittedly the first few days of this trip were spent shooting sparingly, driven by the neophyte’s underlying fear of depleting a limited film stockpile.

Japan - Prologue
Japan - Prologue

“Does it work"?” I asked, pulling the metal brick out of a dusty cupboard. “Find a battery for it and find out!” My Dad replied. And like that, sometime in early 2017, my curiosity for film/photography was reborn.

Undersea Fiji - Viwa
Undersea Fiji - Viwa

The first adventure of every Viwa dive excursion is crossing its barrier reef. There’s a small gap forming a channel about a hundred meters off-shore that the boat has to blast through in order to get to the deeper waters beyond.

Little Viwa
Little Viwa

The sandy beach here is amazing and really the star of the show on Viwa. Soft-white and stretching the length of the resort, I could walk end to end all day long…

Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef
Undersea Fiji - Rainbow Reef

The first time I dive a new area I find my focus starts out on the big picture - landscapes, colours, and the contours of the seafloor/reef. At the Rainbow Reef, that big picture immediately sends you into sensory overload.

A Glimpse of Village Life
A Glimpse of Village Life

While the villages’ appearance was spartan by Western standards, it’s integration with its environment and the sheer abundance therein is nothing sort of astounding. Everything the Vunikurans need grows all over the village grounds, on the mountain slope behind, or in the sea.

Let's Get Remote
Let's Get Remote

They don’t call it remote for nothing. Located on the far Eastern shore of Vanua Levu, in a bay that was once home to a palm tree plantation, The Remote Resort forms a wonderfully secluded oasis.

Travel Yarko Petriw Travel Yarko Petriw

West Maui in Monochrome — Kaanapali, Napili & Kapalua (Part 1)

When I booked a week away to the Island of Maui, a project dawned on me to abandon the temptation to capture the vivid colours of the island and seek instead to document it as I first saw it through the monochrome images shared by explorers and tourists generations before me.

Kapalua Beach, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Aloha

Growing up, I was endlessly fascinated by old books and magazines I’d find at my grandmother’s house describing the far off places of the world. National Geographic magazines and Readers’ Digests, some decades old even at that point, were filled with novel images and captivating stories of wild coastlines lined by swaying palm trees, towering volcanoes, thatch-roofed villages, and strong men paddling through giant waves. Some images showcased vibrant landscapes, while others in grainy black and white evoked the excitement of discovery and left the color pallette to the imagination and to me these were somehow the more engaging images. So, when I booked a week away to the Island of Maui, a project dawned on me to abandon the temptation to capture the vivid colours of the island and seek instead to document it as I first saw it through the monochrome images shared by explorers and tourists generations before me.

Aston Papakea, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R

Aston Papakea, Kaanapali

Regular readers of my blog might find this destination a bit surprising, especially as a place we’ve now visited twice, and at the same property no-less. While it’s neither wild (well, wait until the next story for that) nor posh, it is, to me, eminently relaxing and to that effect sometimes I don’t mind being able to just put my feet up, not think too hard about what to do next, and arrive and leave rested from a trip. To me, Kaanapali retains an enjoyable balance between curated and quaint, with resort properties large and small lining the coast as well as a small towns and hamlets along the coastal road.

We stayed here once before, around ten years ago, at the same property in fact, the Aston Papakaya Resort. Kaanapali is one of the core resort areas on the west coast of Maui, with the seaside facing the islands of Moloka’i and Lanai. It was largely sparred by the wildfires that devastated Lahaina the year before, the remnants of which we caught glimpses of along the way. There’s everything from simple homestays to extravagant hotel properties to stay at depending on the vibe you’re looking for. Our apartment within the Papakea property was well appointed with a full kitchen, lanai (balcony), and an upper loft area that acted as our “in-law suite”. There was ample room for the five of us which included my in-laws who we brought along in hopes of a bit of babysitting support. The buildings on this property certainly aren’t new, but generally appeared in great condition, with our own suite likely renovated recently judging by the lack of wear and tear. It was a nice bonus that our lanai faced almost due west and allowed a lovely view of the inner courtyard with its ponds, palms, pool and the ocean beyond with Moloka’i rising in the distance. Exuberant songbirds and a steady breeze greeted us as we stowed our bags following the roughly hour long drive in from Kahului airport.

Aston Papakea, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

I find the architecture and layout of this resort interesting. At first glance it doesn’t particularly stand out, but as you begin to wander it’s paths there’s an element of Spanish fortress meets brutalism that feels oddly out of place and at the same time rather playful. I could imagine myself as a kid running along the winding paths, playing hide and seek around sharp corners and verdant bushes, and imagining all sorts of foes attempting to storm this seaside citadel.

Aston Papakea, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Aston Papakea, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Aston Papakea, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Honokowai Beach Park, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

The downside to this resort is the lack of direct beach access. While the sea is certainly immediately adjacent, it’s a sub-optimal setup for any lounging on the sand or snorkelling as only a thin strip of sand separates sea and seawall and even then only at low tide. The good news is there are fantastic options for beach-time both walking and easy driving distances away.

Napili & Kapalua

Napili and Kapalua Bays are located just 7km north of the Aston Papakea. They are essentially adjacent, separated by a spit of land that juts into the sea. If you’re driving, street parking is likely your best bet for both though there is a small parking lot nearby Kapalua. It’s hard to pick a favourite between the two, and in fact looking back at my photos I can struggle a bit to remember which is which! The sand here is soft and warm, though shade is at a premium with the few coveted palm trees spots claimed quickly in the mornings. The snorkeling at both is excellent, and I quickly regretted not bringing my dive camera along to capture some of the beauty. Turtles, of course, are delightfully abundant, but as are many other fish and creatures. I even caught a fleeting glimpse of a barracuda swimming past in the deep blue as I swam out to the outer reaches of one of the bays. The shape of the bays shelters them to some degree from the waves, making swimming and play bye the shore safer for young ones, though still worthy of careful attention. Just a bit further up the coast the north facing beaches are clearly pounded more by the surf and less ideal of a snorkel or casual swim. For food and drinks on the beach your best options are Sea House on Napili and Merriman’s just next to Kapalua. As usual, happy hour is where your money will go the farthest.

Napili Bay, Kaanapali, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Napili Bay, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Kapalua Bay, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Ka’anapali Beach

If you head south from the Aston Papakea there’s a roughly 3km stretch of beach from the Hilton to the Royal Lahaina that offers quick and easy access to the sea, warm sand and a myriad of dinning and shopping options. A trail just above the beach runs the entire length of this strip of sand and allows access to the various vacation properties. These beaches are more exposed than the bays of Napili and Kapalua and thus less optimal for snorkelling or swimming, but nonetheless are excellent spots for laying on a sun bed or towel and soaking in the warmth.

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Ka’anapali Beach, Maui, Hawaii Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Our favourite restaurant in this particular area, Monkeypod Kitchen (a more casual sister-restaurant to Merriman’s), was actually a bit further south between the Westin and Whaler hotel’s in a dense shopping area. Lively and akin to a Cactus Club for my Canadian readers. Their Mai Tai is excellent. Honorable mention to Duke’s for its vintage surf vibe.

Figuring out the menu at Monkeypod, Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

Adventure Time

Most regular visitors to Maui attempt the Hana Highway once, and call it done. Even for the driving enthusiast this tight and winding route, often filled with timid tourists, can become exhausting, and while spectacular, always feels a bit like a test of luck and resilience. To go beyond Hana is of course forbidden -or so they insist at the rental car counter. We’d done this trip before, and clearly forgot -or let’s say, misremembered- how long of a day, and challenging a route it could be. With this being the in-laws first visit to the island we felt remiss not taking them on the journey. How did that go? Was it worth a second try? Where did we stop along the way? Did we go the full lap ‘round (and should you)?

Continue to Part II: The Road to Hana — Beyond the Turn →

The wilder side of Maui, Hawaii, Leica M10R, 35mm Summicron

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